[FACE]

The trick in both Lga and PGA sockets is to make the cpu area air tight. I do not put grease in or around the socket. Sealing the area around the cpu with eraser works fine by itself. you can insulate up the side of the socket and cpu to the very top edge of teh ihs and not interfere with the cooler (wb/ evap/pot) at all.

so I would try the eraser method until you get the dragon skin method perfected. Make it thin on the mobo, and gradually mound it up around teh socket until you have it up level with the cpu. Make sure it is pressed tight to the sides of the socket and cpu and your worries are over.

[Splave]

im impressed mate

dont worry about IBT, we measure stability by having the benchmark you are planning to run finish!

[Neuromancer]

Word.. if it handles wprime 1024... its uber stable. (IE... you need to clock more LOL)

[Neuromancer]

I would solve that blockage problem before worrying about anything else.

Take the block apart and clean it out.

[ny_driver]

It's not clogged, the pump just doesn't have ass enough to push the air out. Simple as that. I even just removed the block and pump to assist in getting the air out and it didn't get it all out. seemed like it was pumping good. hmm going to go with the submersible I guess...less air problems I think and quieter.

[ny_driver]

Is it possible that I fried the chip and the temp sensors are now out of whack? EDIT: nahh it's the air.........It's at 30c right now and rising slowly. Air is so fucking frustrating.

[Neuromancer]

Yeah I have only WCed a few times... I build the rig up with enough slack in the hoses that I can move pieces around while the pump is on to bleed the air. (flip the rad 180 degrees for a few minutes. Tilt the whole rig to the side then the other side...

Never took more than 10 minutes to bleed a system after my first attempt./

But I also never ran 4 blocks in a loop

[ny_driver]

I just have the cpu in there. But the air in the return line is like a brick wall. I have no idea how I got the last pump going.

With my gpus I have the res above everything and it just bleeds right out.

Here as you can see the end of the return is downhill. If I put the return through the side of the cooler it would work great I bet, but that's a lot of work I don't plan to do.

I should just let a few gallons out and put a hole through the side, then the air would have nowhere to get trapped. Simple solution, pain in the ass to do. I think I'll try the submersible first though as it should be much quieter.

I'm going to have the same problem with the submersible in the return line. This blows.

[Neuromancer]

Ahh... I see it now...

Yeah you are going to have to keep the pump input line below water level. Not a big deal really although right now it will require removing the liquid from the loop. With a big daddy pump in your last pictures I would not think it would be a big deal as long as you prime the feed line. But... bleeding would be tough.

If there is nothing coming out of the output, there is nothing going in the input. Pressure does not mean much if it is vapor locked by a big ole air bubble...


In theory....


if you have about 3-4' of intake hose inside the cooler... fill it... put your thumb over the end of it... put it all back in the cooler under the water... power up the pump wait a second or two and remove your thumb.. this should provide enough liquid to keep the circuit going.

Not a water cooling guy, but do have some experience with pumps.

you could also use a small pump to prime the feed line for the big one until the loop is bled (should only have to do it first start up...)

[ny_driver]

It's not that easy...the instant the hose goes into the chiller it is frozen like stone. I have my pump below the water line, way below, and I just cannot get the air out of the return line. I need to get another diaphragm pump I think. Wasting days.