[Witchdoctor]

where did you get the custom smilies ?

[Neuromancer]

If you do not repair them with JBweld (TBH I am not sure that is no better than standard epoxy) or epoxy (I would not use since it so easily deteriorates little acetone and whoops its rubber cement!)

dont trash them recycle them. Scrappers will probably give you a few bucks for them since they are alum and copper? Average PC tower nets $15-20 from what I hear. Would assume something with no plastic would get close.

Have you tried just heating them up with a torch and a little solder? (if all else fails)

Ohh side benefit. dont wait for them to cool down and put the tubing on. Instant no clamps action! LOL jk

[MaadDaawg]

got some of that spray sealant "as seen on tv" lol thinking of trying that

[PhIlLy ChEeSe]

Originally Posted by MaadDaawg

got some of that spray sealant "as seen on tv" lol thinking of trying that

All that stuff is just chip guard, I wouldn't bother as the mess will be bad. A brass rod and a soldering tourch, clean the area good with sand paper. Then use flat black to finish it off

[MaadDaawg]

Originally Posted by PhIlLy ChEeSe

All that stuff is just chip guard, I wouldn't bother as the mess will be bad. A brass rod and a soldering tourch, clean the area good with sand paper. Then use flat black to finish it off

yeah, I suspect you're right

that means I'll have to empty it first

[Witchdoctor]

yea get high % of silver with flux in the stick. This will melt at a reasonable temp as opposed to copper

If it is copper or brass

Brazing Alloy Rod - Contents 15% Silver - 5% Phosphorus - 80% Copper - Brazing Range 1190 to 1480 F - Container Tube - Industry Standard-Good Near ...

Brazing Alloy Rod - Contents 7.2% Phosphorus - 92.8% Copper - Brazing Range 1310 to 1475 F - Container Tube - Copper to Copper or Brass Joints for ...

If it is aluminum repair these would be doable

http://www.google.com/shopping/produ...w&ved=0CDgQrRI

You will need to watch the fins as they will be wanting to melt at brazing temps, possibly sink off the area with vice grip and wrap wet towles against the fin area on the end that is being repaired ...........



Stop in any welding retailer with the unit and they will hook you up with the best stix for the job

or simply replace unit with no muss no fuss as brazing aluminum is tricky

[MaadDaawg]

Think I'm just gonna sand it and use my high silver content epoxy and see how that works. If it works, I can then fix my Feser Duo that sprang a similar leak a year or so ago

Originally Posted by Witchdoctor

yea get high % of silver with flux in the stick. This will melt at a reasonable temp as opposed to copper

If it is copper or brass

Brazing Alloy Rod - Contents 15% Silver - 5% Phosphorus - 80% Copper - Brazing Range 1190 to 1480 F - Container Tube - Industry Standard-Good Near ...

Brazing Alloy Rod - Contents 7.2% Phosphorus - 92.8% Copper - Brazing Range 1310 to 1475 F - Container Tube - Copper to Copper or Brass Joints for ...

If it is aluminum repair these would be doable

http://www.google.com/shopping/produ...w&ved=0CDgQrRI

You will need to watch the fins as they will be wanting to melt at brazing temps, possibly sink off the area with vice grip and wrap wet towles against the fin area on the end that is being repaired ...........



Stop in any welding retailer with the unit and they will hook you up with the best stix for the job

or simply replace unit with no muss no fuss as brazing aluminum is tricky