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Deanzo
06-28-2009, 03:54 PM
There are some great guides for this, maybe the best one is from k|ngp|n http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=125155


But to add to that, this is how I do it.

I use nail polish for insulating around the socket, caps, back of the board etc etc.

On the back side of the board I also use a heater pad.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/9314/img0489yf5.th.jpg (http://img102.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0489yf5.jpg)

http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/1092/img0490az5.th.jpg (http://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0490az5.jpg)

First layer of insulation.
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/5239/img0491rc4.th.jpg (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0491rc4.jpg)

Paper towel gasket to catch and absorb any drips or moisture that may occur around the cpu.
http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/3568/img0492fv1.th.jpg (http://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0492fv1.jpg)

2nd layer of insulation.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/701/img0493mn8.th.jpg (http://img104.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0493mn8.jpg)

3rd and large layer of insulation.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/9461/img0494ea6.th.jpg (http://img104.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0494ea6.jpg)

http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/9819/img0495rx2.th.jpg (http://img102.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0495rx2.jpg)

http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/7844/img0496mg2.th.jpg (http://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0496mg2.jpg)

Add Ceramique (thermal interface material)
http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/8528/img0497ca9.th.jpg (http://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0497ca9.jpg)

Mount Pot.
http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/6304/img0498ns2.th.jpg (http://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0498ns2.jpg)

Deanzo
06-28-2009, 03:54 PM
Right then kids!

You've been sub zero cooling your cpu and now want to take the next step.

Good for you! :)

Please note, this can make sub zero cooling on a CPU look and feel easy.

First thing, most everyone who does this kills a card at some point and time!
But if the big clocks/speeds matter to you, this is the next step.

As I didn't take many pictures of my 88U, I'll use the GX2 (Oh the fun, two PCB's :rolleyes: )

First off take the card apart.

Not all cards are the same, google your card and see if you can find a "how to"
For the GX2, you can use this one http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Zotac/G...9800_GX2/4.html (http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Zotac/GeForce_9800_GX2/4.html)
This first step can take over an hour on it's own (mine sure did)

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/189/img0582hn2.th.jpg (http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0582hn2.jpg)

After you have it apart, give it a good clean. And Coat the areas around the core and mem with liquid electrical tape or nail polish, both sides, front and back.
You will need to heatsink the digital vreg chips on each PCB as well as the monitor output chip. And make a gasket(s) to go around the core(s)

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/2619/img0584os4.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0584os4.jpg)

Make sure you insulate your pot well.

But think about what your insulation will push up against. To fat, it may just kill that item ie: vmem

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/2655/img0577gu3.th.jpg (http://img406.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0577gu3.jpg)

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/8133/img0578vd5.th.jpg (http://img341.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0578vd5.jpg)

Now mount the pot to the card, and if your really lucky. You'll have some POS sli bridge getting in the way :rolleyes:

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/8500/img0586hf2.th.jpg (http://img389.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0586hf2.jpg)

Deanzo
06-28-2009, 03:55 PM
The back of the PCB(s) will get very cold, so you will need to insulate that as well. Or you'll have ice/condensation issues, and then the water will run down the card and into the PCI-e slot. And that's bad

I use two layers, the first layer is just plan closed cell insulation.

http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/473/img0588ru7.th.jpg (http://img67.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0588ru7.jpg)

http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/1679/img0590jz7.th.jpg (http://img67.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0590jz7.jpg)

2nd layer is the black sticky back insulation, make it over sized to stop air getting in and under the first layer.

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/9545/img0589ju9.th.jpg (http://img502.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0589ju9.jpg)

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9711/img0591tv7.th.jpg (http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0591tv7.jpg)

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/631/img0598bq9.th.jpg (http://img213.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0598bq9.jpg)

One last step, The Motherboard

You will need to insulate around the PCI-e slot with liquid electrical tape or nail polish, front and back.

Rub some vaneline or dielectric gease onto both side of the "gold fingers" that go into the PCI-e slot, and a "small" amount onto the top of the slot itself.

Also pack paper towels around the slot.

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/6746/img0600rd9.th.jpg (http://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0600rd9.jpg)

Well done, and now test your handy work.

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/395/img0594qg5.th.jpg (http://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0594qg5.jpg)

http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/8878/img0597ze4.th.jpg (http://img67.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0597ze4.jpg)

Deanzo
06-28-2009, 03:55 PM
Now that we have looked at both CPU and GPU Cooling, It's time for the NB.

Over all, very easy.

Just like the CPU, we need to make a gasket, but this time a little bigger.

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/4669/img0799hz9.th.jpg (http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0799hz9.jpg)

Added two paper towel gaskets.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/703/img0809gl2.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0809gl2.jpg)

Another layer of insulation.

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/7199/img0810lr9.th.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0810lr9.jpg)

Last layer of insulation and the hold down.

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/7553/img0811pd0.th.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0811pd0.jpg)

Add the top part of the insulation.

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8111/img0812yo4.th.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0812yo4.jpg)

I used 10mm insulation under the back plate.

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/4247/img0807po2.th.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0807po2.jpg)

Add some other heatsinks for the SB and FET's, and your ready to go.

http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/8900/img0820mx7.th.jpg (http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0820mx7.jpg)

And then have some fun!

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/4654/img0828xg2.th.jpg (http://img80.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0828xg2.jpg)

Deanzo
06-28-2009, 03:56 PM
I've moved away from using nail polish for insulating around the board.
Using a conformal coating on both sides, is faster, better and costs alot less.

(For New Zealand members) You can pick up a can at JayCars for about $12NZ, and should do 10+ boards. Which is alot better than the $25NZ each board that nail polish was costing me.

Just take off all the heatsinks etc, tape it out and spray! It's that easy.
I don't cover the vreg's around the socket, I spray over the top and clean it off after (I find this faster) the cleaner is sold right next to the conformal coating (For NZ members shopping at JayCars)

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5205/img1349hm1.th.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1349hm1.jpg)

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/1587/img1350zo3.th.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1350zo3.jpg)

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/345/img1351kj2.th.jpg (http://img18.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1351kj2.jpg)

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/833/img1382nn1.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1382nn1.jpg)

Deanzo
06-28-2009, 03:56 PM
Yet another way to insulate your board to stop condensation (air getting in)

Use "Art Eraser" to cover the board, there is no way air is getting in and under this stuff.

In the picture below I'm getting ready to mount a NB pot.

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/6973/img1395.th.jpg (http://img410.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1395.jpg)

punx223
06-28-2009, 03:57 PM
damn b ro very nice.... great guide for anyone just getting into sub ambient cooling

Chuchnit
06-28-2009, 04:07 PM
Thanks for sharing Deanzo :wt: I do have one question though. In your experience, is the vaseline in the pci-e slot a "have to" thing if you properly insulate the vga and use paper towels?

DrNip
06-28-2009, 04:18 PM
Nice write up bud!

Deanzo
06-28-2009, 04:23 PM
damn b ro very nice.... great guide for anyone just getting into sub ambient cooling

Thanks mate.

Thanks for sharing Deanzo :wt: I do have one question though. In your experience, is the vaseline in the pci-e slot a "have to" thing if you properly insulate the vga and use paper towels?

Thanks, and yes, it's a must do imo.

I've killed a board by not doing it :argh:

DrNip
06-28-2009, 04:26 PM
Good to know about the p. jelly in the pcie slots. :)

punx223
06-28-2009, 04:30 PM
Thanks mate.



Thanks, and yes, it's a must do imo.

I've killed a board by not doing it :argh:



I do agree with deanzo, grease in the pciex slot for subzero is almost not an option as it will easily fry the NB and possibly the card if you get any water in there. plus if you need to "clean up" the stuff a lil denatured alcohol and a very soft bristled toothbrush will usually get rid of it.... it takes time but hey, so does insulating the board..

Hell ask bill about when I cleaned up his 280 :rofl

Chuchnit
06-28-2009, 04:37 PM
Thanks mate.



Thanks, and yes, it's a must do imo.

I've killed a board by not doing it :argh:

Well thanks for the heads up then. I got two pots I'm dying to use on my cards. I just need to get the vr's for the vmods first.

Jeffro64
06-28-2009, 06:57 PM
Thanks for posting this..... I'm about to break into sub zero cooling and this is very helpful!

dinos22
06-28-2009, 07:46 PM
nice job Dean
i like your GPU insulation....it worked well for us in comps for sure :)

Deanzo
06-28-2009, 08:28 PM
Nice write up bud!

Thanks,

Thanks for posting this..... I'm about to break into sub zero cooling and this is very helpful!

Happy to help where I can.

nice job Dean
i like your GPU insulation....it worked well for us in comps for sure :)

Thanks mate :)

giorgioprimo
06-29-2009, 12:08 AM
Nice guide, can yuo tell memore about this grey insulation material you used on the mobo and VGA before to put the black neoprene ? even some link to the shop were i possiblel to find it ( in italy i cannot find it)

Deanzo
06-29-2009, 12:34 AM
Nice guide, can yuo tell memore about this grey insulation material you used on the mobo and VGA before to put the black neoprene ? even some link to the shop were i possiblel to find it ( in italy i cannot find it)

Thanks.

It's just thinner closed cell neoprene, there's a store here that sells every thicknes and texture you can imagine and it's costs so very little.

For the vga cards:
If using the Tek9 3.0 I use a soft 5mm piece, and if using the Tek9 4.0 a soft 3mm piece

Around the cpu socket, two 5mm or one 10mm gasket(s) made from a harder piece of closed cell neoprene.

giorgioprimo
06-29-2009, 12:51 AM
Thanks.

It's just thinner closed cell neoprene, there's a store here that sells every thicknes and texture you can imagine and it's costs so very little.

For the vga cards:
If using the Tek9 3.0 I use a soft 5mm piece, and if using the Tek9 4.0 a soft 3mm piece

Around the cpu socket, two 5mm or one 10mm gasket(s) made from a harder piece of closed cell neoprene.

but the "grey" one you used around GPU core ? that thing seems stiky and more rubber than neoprene ......

Deanzo
06-29-2009, 01:53 AM
I asure you it is, but it's a very soft and pliable kind, but not sticky.

A wee tip to stop air getting in, is just before I do the final mount, I put a lite coat of nail polish around the gpu core, so the gasket sticks to the PCB.

giorgioprimo
06-29-2009, 02:19 AM
I asure you it is, but it's a very soft and pliable kind, but not sticky.

A wee tip to stop air getting in, is just before I do the final mount, I put a lite coat of nail polish around the gpu core, so the gasket sticks to the PCB.

K, can you find any link in the web to this kind of material ? co i can checl it and ask around ?

<<HANNIBAL>>
06-29-2009, 04:46 AM
Nice insulation methods, thnx for sharing

Vivi
06-29-2009, 05:18 AM
this guide is potent.

Well done Dean AWESOME stuff!!

Buckeye
06-29-2009, 06:17 AM
Very nice guide and thanks for posting it !

I have not done any GPU's yet for sub zero, mostly CPU's. I will be getting into GPU's very shortly tho and like very much seeing how others prep there cards.

Thanks again !

GeorgeStorm
06-29-2009, 08:23 AM
Nice guide
I recently got an SS, and so have only just started sub zero,
But the putty method is what I use, just so easy to put on/take off,
And really effective, (if done properly)

karmakazi
06-29-2009, 09:16 AM
Great guide Deanzo

K, can you find any link in the web to this kind of material ? co i can checl it and ask around ?

Try to find a material called Frost King Pipe Wrap Insulation.

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=210580732&listingid=37843706&dcaid=17902

crio
06-29-2009, 12:06 PM
Very nice guide man.It describes everything and its clear.I like it very much
Pesonaly i use the Art Eraser cause it's easy to use and easy to come out.If i create a think layer and it sticks properly woth the pots armaflex it sucks out the air and no water in my bench,after 7-8 hours i had only a little water in the backplate.

Deanzo
06-29-2009, 12:59 PM
K, can you find any link in the web to this kind of material ? co i can checl it and ask around ?

I'll see if I can find you a link.

Nice insulation methods, thnx for sharing

NP :)

this guide is potent.

Well done Dean AWESOME stuff!!

Thanks mate.

Very nice guide and thanks for posting it !

I have not done any GPU's yet for sub zero, mostly CPU's. I will be getting into GPU's very shortly tho and like very much seeing how others prep there cards.

Thanks again !

NP mate.

Nice guide
I recently got an SS, and so have only just started sub zero,
But the putty method is what I use, just so easy to put on/take off,
And really effective, (if done properly)

Thanks,

I find clean up can take a bit of time to get all the wee bit out from under caps etc .

Great guide Deanzo



Try to find a material called Frost King Pipe Wrap Insulation.

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=210580732&listingid=37843706&dcaid=17902

Thanks,

That stuff is great, can't buy it in New Zealand which sucks.

Josifek
06-29-2009, 01:14 PM
Great guide ! I personally use kneaded rubber. I have one tip: heat it up with a hairdryer, it gets sticky and flexible, much better to work with. It gets stuck on the board so no air gets between the rubber and the PCB.

Deanzo
06-29-2009, 01:23 PM
Very nice guide man.It describes everything and its clear.I like it very much
Pesonaly i use the Art Eraser cause it's easy to use and easy to come out.If i create a think layer and it sticks properly woth the pots armaflex it sucks out the air and no water in my bench,after 7-8 hours i had only a little water in the backplate.

Thanks mate,

Great guide ! I personally use kneaded rubber. I have one tip: heat it up with a hairdryer, it gets sticky and flexible, much better to work with. It gets stuck on the board so no air gets between the rubber and the PCB.

Ta, and thanks for the tip.

thebanik
06-29-2009, 08:56 PM
Damn nice guide Deanzo.

Mean Machine
06-29-2009, 11:28 PM
For you using the kneaded rubber: be sure to keep it away from your pot, copper turns black pretty fast after coming in contact with the rubber. Doesn't look to neat, I don't know if aluminum does the same, but I suppose there will be some sort of reaction with that as well.

Otherwise, a very nice guide, Deanzo!

<<HANNIBAL>>
06-29-2009, 11:56 PM
For you using the kneaded rubber: be sure to keep it away from your pot, copper turns black pretty fast after coming in contact with the rubber. Doesn't look to neat, I don't know if aluminum does the same, but I suppose there will be some sort of reaction with that as well.

Otherwise, a very nice guide, Deanzo!

yes but you can always clean it with some coca cola :P

Deanzo
06-30-2009, 12:00 AM
Damn nice guide Deanzo.

Thanks

For you using the kneaded rubber: be sure to keep it away from your pot, copper turns black pretty fast after coming in contact with the rubber. Doesn't look to neat, I don't know if aluminum does the same, but I suppose there will be some sort of reaction with that as well.

Otherwise, a very nice guide, Deanzo!

Thanks, and see below.

yes but you can always clean it with some coca cola :P.

I give mine a coke bath every month or so, works very well.
I used to use a mix of vinegar and salt, it cleans very well, but turns the copper a little bit pink and the smell is a little bit much.

<<HANNIBAL>>
06-30-2009, 12:06 AM
I also tried with soda but it didn't work, maybe I did something wrong because people clean copper with soda

Deanzo
06-30-2009, 12:30 AM
Every time I use coke, I always wonder what that stuff is doing to our insides.

Mean Machine
06-30-2009, 12:55 AM
I suppose I have to sacrifice a can of coke then. I suppose the worst effect coke has is on your teeth, actually.

youngpro
07-13-2009, 12:44 AM
nice guide deanzo... i wish i saw something like this before i first got started... that dfi sli-dr expert might still be alive now!

3oh6
07-14-2009, 06:54 PM
this is why kneaded rubber eraser is the best first layer of insulation...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/3oh6/oca/_MG_3067.jpg

the 10 second un-insulation method two minutes after finishing benching at -100C :thumbsup:

Buckeye
07-14-2009, 07:17 PM
Yup and then in a Microwave for 20 seconds and its ready to be reapplied ;)

punx223
07-14-2009, 07:21 PM
god i love that stuff

Kal-EL
07-15-2009, 03:21 AM
Yup and then in a Microwave for 20 seconds and its ready to be reapplied ;)

I did not know that Buckeye, thx, will have to give that a go. :Hi:

karmakazi
07-15-2009, 05:52 AM
this is why kneaded rubber eraser is the best first layer of insulation...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/3oh6/oca/_MG_3067.jpg

the 10 second un-insulation method two minutes after finishing benching at -100C :thumbsup:

Awesome pic :laughing:

Deanzo
07-15-2009, 03:00 PM
nice guide deanzo... i wish i saw something like this before i first got started... that dfi sli-dr expert might still be alive now!

Thanks mate, means alot coming from you.

this is why kneaded rubber eraser is the best first layer of insulation...

"picture"

the 10 second un-insulation method two minutes after finishing benching at -100C :thumbsup:

Man, mine never comes off like that.
It only ever pulls off in bits, takes forever.

Maybe I need to try another kind ?

3oh6
07-15-2009, 03:13 PM
Man, mine never comes off like that.
It only ever pulls off in bits, takes forever.

Maybe I need to try another kind ?
might be that, one brand i use seems to be a bit "tougher" than the other. i really like General, the other i use is Staedler.

another thing is do you take it off cold or after everything has warmed up, cold makes it come off in one piece easier. if you do prefer to take it off when warm though, always have a little piece balled up that you can use to dab the small bits around resistors and surface mount caps...the eraser likes to stick to itself. lot's of guys i have run into didn't know that, works great for getting small bits out of tight spots too :thumbsup:

MaadDaawg
07-17-2009, 07:01 PM
I've cleaned out a couple of art stores of maleable eraser - GREAT stuff and so easy to use :)

On cleaning copper, you'll find that Bartenders Helper is awesome stuff. Never used it on a pot, but the wife uses it on our copper kitchen pots all the time and they come out looking new each time :)

got a Dice pot coming from a friend, so gonna play with that for awhile. The wife INSISTS I cannot use LN2 in my office, I can only play with it in the basement, and I can't play with it there till my daughter moves out.. which will hopefully be within the next couple of months... hopefully being the key word :(

Oh well...

Kal-EL
07-19-2009, 04:40 PM
I've cleaned out a couple of art stores of maleable eraser - GREAT stuff and so easy to use :)

On cleaning copper, you'll find that Bartenders Helper is awesome stuff. Never used it on a pot, but the wife uses it on our copper kitchen pots all the time and they come out looking new each time :)

got a Dice pot coming from a friend, so gonna play with that for awhile. The wife INSISTS I cannot use LN2 in my office, I can only play with it in the basement, and I can't play with it there till my daughter moves out.. which will hopefully be within the next couple of months... hopefully being the key word :(

Oh well...

What brand are you buying up? Seems the local shelves are barren, can't put my finger on the culprit :Dizzy:

Chuchnit
07-19-2009, 04:56 PM
What brand are you buying up? Seems the local shelves are barren, can't put my finger on the culprit :Dizzy:

Just get some brasso and extra greese for the elbow ;)

BustaH
07-19-2009, 11:41 PM
really nice guide here Deanzo, very well done.

crustytheclown
07-20-2009, 01:58 AM
Great guide buddy.You've made it clear to new ''players'' how to insulate safe and easy...The pics are also very cool...

Rogue210
07-20-2009, 04:25 AM
just putting my 2 cents in about cleaning copper barkeeper friend is on of the best products...if u r not able to find the stuff...try wenol...its a paste and a little easier to use than brasso cause it wont get all over the place....:D cleaned alot of copper pots in my days :P

Kal-EL
07-20-2009, 04:53 AM
just putting my 2 cents in about cleaning copper barkeeper friend is on of the best products...if u r not able to find the stuff...try wenol...its a paste and a little easier to use than brasso cause it wont get all over the place....:D cleaned alot of copper pots in my days :P

Two things wenches do:

1)Clean copper pots
2)Bring me more grog!


lol, j/k, thx Rogue, OCA Wenche cool2

Rogue210
07-20-2009, 10:38 AM
:laughing: Ha ha funny supes:toungue1:

Neuromancer
07-20-2009, 01:39 PM
Thanks mate, means alot coming from you.



Man, mine never comes off like that.
It only ever pulls off in bits, takes forever.

Maybe I need to try another kind ?

Deanzo,

I read elsewhere, you throw your board in the freezer for 2 minutes and the eraser pulls right off..



Question for you gurus of subambient enjoyment.

I used to see people recommend dielectric grease in the socket. Is that still the case, I saw no mention of it in this thread (except for PCIE slot) but I was wondering if that is just because of BGA that Intel uses now, on AMD, since it still uses a ZIF socket, would DiE grease or Vaseline be required?

rickss69
06-16-2010, 09:36 AM
Thuban returns and Crosshair being prepared with Dragon Skin. You guys better try this and throw that eraser in the trash where it belongs...:thumbsup:

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00459.jpg

Splave
06-16-2010, 09:41 AM
rickster link me up again, you using the fast slow medium or 20 30 etc stuff?

Hondacity
06-16-2010, 09:51 AM
i'm in :D

rickss69
06-16-2010, 09:53 AM
Fast - trial size is plenty

http://www.smooth-on.com/index.php?cPath=1115_1339

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00444.jpg

Splave
06-16-2010, 10:22 AM
ordered, you convinced me rick

rickss69
06-16-2010, 10:39 AM
You won't regret and your fingers will thank you...:D

Witchdoctor
06-16-2010, 02:36 PM
does it come off easily ?

May give this a try when my new Classy gets back from RMA

Jor-El
06-16-2010, 02:48 PM
does it come off easily ?

May give this a try when my new Classy gets back from RMA

Rick showed on another thread it's pretty easy to come off and better in 1 piece!

This stuff looks amazing on that board Rick, I got to give it a go someday!

GFDuke
06-16-2010, 03:56 PM
Ordered up some myself today. Looks amazing.

GeorgeStorm
06-27-2010, 03:19 AM
Would love to see that stuff in action! looks pretty nifty

sofos1990
06-27-2010, 03:29 AM
Vaseline FTW :D :D

Firstly 2 layers of plastik spray on the mobo then vaseline, some paper and a piece of armaflex :)

http://i49.tinypic.com/2v952me.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/34e7nfl.jpg

I used to insulate my mboo with eraser but since I've tried vaseline I won't change it never haha

Kal-EL
06-27-2010, 04:05 AM
Oh so goohweeee! :)

GFDuke
06-27-2010, 04:17 AM
Now thats never gonna clean up. I would only do that if i wasn't abe to RMA a board r never planned n it. Thats gotta be a bitch to clean off.

sofos1990
06-27-2010, 04:47 AM
It's hard to clean it up .... that's the only problem :(
Hope the oven can do something for this mess :p

rickss69
06-27-2010, 06:40 AM
^ Alcohol/contact cleaner + compressed air ^

Kal-EL
06-27-2010, 01:55 PM
Its not that difficult to clean up, use the oven to warm up the p/j or a heat gun and watch most of it run right off the edge of the board.

Option #2, take a hot shower with the board with some mild detergent, don't mess with the socket pins (scrubbing) Put in clothes dryer on shoe rack on medium for an hour or more, let dry completely for another 24 and u should be good.

Witchdoctor
06-27-2010, 02:00 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omv78TTEYHc&feature=related

rickss69
06-27-2010, 02:19 PM
Dishwasher would be a lot easier...:thumbsup:

Patch
06-27-2010, 10:49 PM
Lovin the vaseline. Messy.

sofos1990
07-10-2010, 08:27 AM
It was looking to hard to clean this messy thing .
Today I had some time so I decided to give it a try :D

That's the result after 10 mins with the hair dryer lol
http://i26.tinypic.com/10n738z.jpg

Kal-EL
07-10-2010, 08:49 AM
looks brand new :D

Hondacity
07-10-2010, 09:23 AM
sheet i don't have a hair dryer...

nice clean work Sofoklis

Rasmus66
06-18-2011, 02:31 AM
Vaseline is really easy to get of in the oven or with a hair dryer.

Then just put the board in the dishwasher or give it a bath:)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huGl2hfzL90

Rasmus66
06-19-2011, 05:53 AM
Cleaning time for my R3E board.

Kal-EL
06-19-2011, 08:00 AM
Good as new :)
15-20 minutes in the clothes dryer and ready for business ;)

Vivi
06-19-2011, 08:09 AM
so are you cleaning it to RMA it? Or just to clean?

How safe is this method, looks like a good cleaner

Rasmus66
06-19-2011, 08:46 AM
so are you cleaning it to RMA it? Or just to clean?

How safe is this method, looks like a good cleaner

Im just cleaning it:)

And it's a pretty safe method but not the easy way. A dishwasher is better.

BenchZowner
06-20-2011, 09:52 AM
In this video you can see ( in the beginning ) how I insulate new mobos without using a conformal spray, just sticky pipe-wrap insulation from FrostKing for the rear side of the mobo and vaseline & two armaflex ( k-flex ) non-sticky foam sheets on the socket.

zfN0-ML0R6k

kikicoco1334
06-20-2011, 10:47 AM
so just take out the cmos batt and the cpu rack and wash it in the bobble water and it'll be good to go?

BenchZowner
06-20-2011, 11:04 AM
And remove any stickers prior to washing it up, because they might change color, or partially or totally get washed out and leave you with blank stickers and no serial number :p

To remove any kind of sticker, including the warranty pre-cut pattern ones, heat them up with a heat gun or a hair dryer until they're very hot to the touch, and progressively yet slowly remove them.
The same applies for placing them back on, heat them up, stick them, and heat them up more, and let them cool down.

kikicoco1334
06-20-2011, 12:24 PM
thanks mang! i monna try that out with the commando sometime soon

Rasmus66
06-21-2011, 09:18 AM
Do any of you guys know what can dissolve Kneaded eraser?

Here is my problem

http://peecee.dk/uploads/062011/IMG_6857.JPG

I cant get it out with a needle and im afraid of damage the pins if i use a brush or something similar.

So the only way is to dissolve it without breaking the black plastic thing the pins is placed in.

Acetone and alcohol did not work.

Splave
06-21-2011, 10:54 AM
doesnt vaseline break down eraser?

Patch
06-21-2011, 11:15 AM
Vaseline does break it down, but just into a gooey mess that's even harder to clean up.

I suggest getting some jeweler's forceps and remove the pieces bit by bit. Dribble a little LN2 in the socket to get the eraser cold (but NOT frozen) and it'll come out easier.

Lately I've just been using some eraser and neoprene for the lean and clean approach. Easy application. Easy dry out. Easy clean up.

Stopped using nail polish, liquid tape, vaseline, etc. Sure, I get condensation problems sometimes with sub -130 benching - but I did occasionally when doing elaborate waterproofing measures too. Haven't tried any conformal coating because the hardware stores I frequent don't have it.

Kal-EL
06-21-2011, 11:51 PM
Yeah, or a needle head should be small enough to pick out that eraser goop.

dumo
06-22-2011, 08:20 AM
My insulation for 24/7 phase change cooler socket 1155

First, I covered most smd around socket with clear nail polish then I put electrical tape around socket

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/1333/screenshot056v.jpg

Eraser on top of it filled any gap then armaflex socket layer

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/6984/screenshot057l.jpg

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1913/screenshot058w.jpg

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/2295/screenshot059s.jpg

Its a pain when we bin cpu, but for me its a necessary to fight condensation

Kal-EL
06-22-2011, 08:57 AM
Its tough binning in humid environments but theres little choice when condensation build up occurs so quickly.

Rasmus66
06-24-2011, 10:24 AM
Finally got the socket clean.

Used a soft brush, alcohol, forceps and a very small needle. Took me about 2 hours.

First boot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmbaKmNvLOY

Kal-EL
06-24-2011, 11:12 AM
Very good :)