Purchased a new/used water block.

[ShrimpBrime]

I purchased a Swiftech GTZ block. It has s775 brackets I can use with my i7 3770K.

It looks really large on the bottom. How does this block fair for cooling?

Possibly used for TEC cooling cause of Witch_D getting my itch for that stuff going again. I can't stand it cause I can never find a decent way to run a TEC on a PC.... :Dizzy: BUT never the less I really dig the challenges faced when using that type of cooling.

I'd just like to know about cleaning the block. From what I see there's a piece of plastic inside to direct waterflow. If this piece is removed, will it make the water block useless??

And the seal looks to be 2 piece? Should I purchase extras? Has there been known problems with this block leaking??

Thanks in advance!

[DOM]

lol you just got this over at EOCF i got something from that guy also XD

you just need this (http://www.swiftech.com/gtz-uhd-1156-bp.aspx) :D $10 make you holla :laughing:

[MaadDaawg]

The GTZs are good blocks, they were the standard up until a couple years ago. Think I got three of em in a drawer somewhere :P

[kikicoco1334]

I think i may still have one of them GTZ around the house somewhere lol
it's really based on which motherboard you are using it's different you may have a set of holes for 775 mounts.

[DOM]

I think i may still have one of them GTZ around the house somewhere lol
it's really based on which motherboard you are using it's different you may have a set of holes for 775 mounts.
http://www.swiftech.com/gtz-uhd-1156-bp.aspx

[ShrimpBrime]

Yea at least the bracket isn't expensive :D. I also have the s775 hole drilled in the EXtreme 4 also which I'm using now.

Do you guys remove the hold down for the Cpu? I found the thing to be... well... big and bulky. 3 screws it comes right off?

[kikicoco1334]

I woudln't cuz you don't want to bent any pins in the socket or you'll be well... SOL lol...

also DOMass, just don't.

[ShrimpBrime]

Does that plastic bracket that the Cpu sits in comes off with the metal hold down bracket? So just bare pins out of the board?

[kikicoco1334]

actually i am not 100% sure..

[ShrimpBrime]

Lol! well if that little black casing stays there, I think it would be cool. But I need confirmation before I go tearing this thing apart again. I'm trying to make this one last a few months hehe....

[DOM]

you can remove the metal hold down but I wouldnt recommend it cuz you can bend the socket pins when removing the cpu may stay stuck to the wb and fall off when removing it and the plastic part where the pins are in doesnt come off

and since the AsRock Z77 Extreme 4 has the 775 holes you wouldnt need the mounting kit

edit: forgot to say i been running a 775 since 1366 also this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708019

[ShrimpBrime]

Is it me, or do all these blocks look the same lol!

I was thinking about getting the Heat Killer. that thing looks massive!

Any recommendations on a heavy duty water block like that?

[rickss69]

Save your money...the differences are miniscule. ;)

[ShrimpBrime]

Save your money...the differences are miniscule. ;)

Kinda like thermal pastes :Dizzy:

Gotcha - I can add chilling whenever needed any ways right!? :cool3:

[ShrimpBrime]

I've also purchase 2x 40mm water blocks all copper for TECs as well.

Not sure how I can arrange all this, But I have 4 water blocks well 5 with the Cpu block, and some air coolers. I may try a peltier stacking technique that usually works somewhat. I have various size TECs and plan to purchase a couple more as well.

I may run this on the old 960T for testing and such. Seal the board and everything.

I'll start a new thread about all that when all the part are together.

[MaadDaawg]

black plastic casing on the motherboard socket :Dizzy: Have no clue what you're talking about :Dizzy: I'd leave the socket on anyway, you don't want any movement of the chip and can't think of what removing the socket would gain you?

[ShrimpBrime]

black plastic casing on the motherboard socket :Dizzy: Have no clue what you're talking about :Dizzy: I'd leave the socket on anyway, you don't want any movement of the chip and can't think of what removing the socket would gain you?

The pins come through a plastic container that shells the processor.

I mod things. I remove things. I add things. That's why. I've run cpu's in AMD boards with the top part torn off, but I understand that's a different creature.

I'd like to remove it so it doesn't absorb heat. Does that make any sense? No doubt in my mind that's what it does.

The cooling device mounting is plenty pressure to hold it still isn't it?

Oh yea and the screws are super close if not touching my case. I could cut that part out, but the next board may have the Cpu located in a different area and I don't want to hack the motherboard tray up.

So look. The black plasic thing that holds the cpu in place. Not the metal hold down that's flipped up. The black thing is glued on right? No worries? The Cpu should pretty much stay put?

This is NOT an exact picture of MY board. just an example cause mine looks like this one.

[rickss69]

Looks like a lot of work for little gain and lots of pain... ;)

[ShrimpBrime]

Not sure I'm actually gonna do it.... I wa just wondering if this is a common thing that's done, obviously not then :lol

[kikicoco1334]

don't remove that thing dude! it's gonna yank the whole socket out!

[ShrimpBrime]

don't remove that thing dude! it's gonna yank the whole socket out!

OK I wont!!! thanks for the heads up too! Really not risk it, that's why I asked!! :laughing:

So I drew up a little basic paint picture. Basically what I have in mind for setting up a 3 TEC cooling system with 2 loops and about 390w of chilling power, 130w of which will be right on the Cpu, or on the cold plate over the cpu rather.

I've ordered a 2 pack 12715 TECs (already have 2 of them)

Also ordered a 1 Kilo Bar of Pure .9995 Copper Bullion for a cold plate on the Cpu.
The dimensions are 5 1/4" x 2 3/4" x 1/2 ". I needed to find between 1/4" and 1/2" think bar of the purest copper for best heat dissipation on that Cpu.

The cold plate also need to be slightly bigger, but not bigger than the water block surface. I think the GTZ block looks to be around 45mm-50mm at the bottom, but having the bar makes it easy so I can make the block w/e size I need.

I would have went with Silve Bullion, but I don't have your guys's moneys :Hi:
______________________________Just kidding there. ^^

Here's an example of what I'd like to try. notice how there's 2 TECs on the Chilling block. Well...... that's how much it takes to get water cold fast. In reality I should use 2 or 3 chiller blocks, but that get's into using ton's of power, may as well go SS at that point....

Air cooler on each hot side water block FTW. I only drew the one.

Dig it?

[rickss69]

Bring us some pic's when you get it mocked up...good luck and happy chillin'! :thumbsup:

[ShrimpBrime]

I really need the luck. Ambient is always a problem. 50f air temps are sweet for this kind of heat dissipation. Each TEC can produce over 250w of HEAT not chilling.

In order to run 40f with a Peltier, the hot side will always be double or more, so 80f on the hot side.... generally with air cooling, it's much hotter than that. That's why liquid is the only way.... 2 loops......

The Chilling plate on the Cpu is the "buffer" point. It may be freezing at the top, and at the bottom get the Cpu socket temp into the 30-40c range and hold it there, much like your LN2 pots you guys use. It holds heat because of mass. So the plate needs to be there.

I will ahve pictures. you can bet your bottoms on it. This won't start until mid March to early spring. China and Japan are far.

I also need to pick up 3 dimmer switches as well for individual TEC control. The Cpu TEC will always have to bee on cause the Cpu will soak the plate and it wont dissipate through the TEC to the water block either. I've tried it, didn't end well in the past.

[Neuromancer]

I assume you TEC guys have already read this page, but for those that have not. Here are a TON of TEC questions and answers

http://www.tellurex.com/technology/peltier-faq.php

[kikicoco1334]

wow nice! are those 180w ones?

[Bones]

Shrimpy, if I understand it correctly, you'll be using water to cool the hot side of the TEC right?

Instead of the regular rad type setup, you could think about what's called a "Bong Cooler" that is a type of rad setup that can cool the water to below ambient temps, sometimes called an evaporative cooler.

It works just like a Port-A-Cool fan in your shop would, air passes through a sheet of water that runs over a structure that's setup to thin out or diffuse/spreadout the water stream as it is returned down to the pickup tube in the res and is recycled. Since the water is diffused into a wide thin sheet instead of just a solid stream, more heat is removed with the airflow going through it.
More efficient than a typical rad & res setup would be - I've always wanted to build one just to try it and might do it one day.... If I can find the time. One thing to be aware of is it's also an evaporative-type setup so you'll need to keep an eye on the water level of the res to maintain it or just hook up a small supply line with a toilet type float valve that will regulate the water level in the res as needed.

If you're going with a slushbox type setup, that would be better but just throwing an idea out there on my part.

[rickss69]

^ I remember those too Bones...never did get around to trying it out. May be a fun project to try...all it takes is a little pvc, a fan and a showerhead. :thumbsup: http://www.overclockers.com/nuclear-tower-water-cooling/

[ShrimpBrime]

That's stuff is cool. haven't tried it nope.

@Kiki - They are 136w TECs.

@Neuromancer - great read. Lots of good q&a in there!

[Neuromancer]

Shrimpy, if I understand it correctly, you'll be using water to cool the hot side of the TEC right?

Instead of the regular rad type setup, you could think about what's called a "Bong Cooler" that is a type of rad setup that can cool the water to below ambient temps, sometimes called an evaporative cooler.

^ I remember those too Bones...never did get around to trying it out. May be a fun project to try...all it takes is a little pvc, a fan and a showerhead. :thumbsup: http://www.overclockers.com/nuclear-tower-water-cooling/

Bong coolers are great, and depending on location can really be effective. (Dry climates will work better than humid ones).

they are a bit more work though because you will be adding dust and stuff directly to teh water, so your loop and blocks will have to be cleaned more often, plus you will need to add water to it frequently.
they are also noisy-ish as well, although it would preclude the need for a whitenoise generator :)

Still for those used to LN2DIceing for benching, the maintenance will be pretty minor :)

I would really like to do one of them some day

[Bones]

You could set it up so that it uses a AC paper type air filter on the air intake side of the box, that will help keep crap from getting into the cooler. As long as the fan is running, no water will get to it.
I also have to say if you can get the return water coming back as a mist rather than a stream, it will become more efficient.

If I can get the materals together, I can do that as a project later and would love to set one up sometime just to see how well it works.

[ShrimpBrime]

OK a quick update~

I did finally get around to TEC cooling a Cpu. I have begun testing on a FX-6100 that has been de-lidded. And to say the least, the cpu doesn't exactly run cool under normal air, and I skipped using just a water block altogether.

In the picture above, I have the Cpu set up minus a water chiller loop. Imstead, I'm using a faucet tap to provide a little cooler water temp to the hot side of the TEC so that I can remove the heat properly enough without saying I had to use Ice or a chiller method (which hardly ever works) So I suppose you can say I cheated a tad. The tap water temps are around 45f deg, so not really cold, but at least cooler than a standard water loop.

I hope to have a few pictures later on today for you guys. I have a couple of screen shots as well.

So far.....

Clocks at 4ghz and 1.250v is a sweet spot. constant frozen cores except on a 6 core load. I think maximum temps got to 27c both cpu and core temps. They level'ed out while running WPrime 1024m back to back a couple of times.

While benchmarking (AquaMark or Pimod) single thread stuff, core temps stayed reported as 0c and the Cpu temp might have hit 10c give or take.

The plate between the TEC and Cpu is 1/16th inch thick 40mm x 45mm, so it's a little bigger than the TEC. I am using the GTZ water block as stated I purchased for this project.

Hopefully you guys get a kick from this like I do. keep you eye out for pictures later today, I just gotta get them off my camera and transported to a PC with some internet!

TTYL,

The ShrimpBrime

[PhIlLy ChEeSe]

The pins come through a plastic container that shells the processor.

I mod things. I remove things. I add things. That's why. I've run cpu's in AMD boards with the top part torn off, but I understand that's a different creature.

I'd like to remove it so it doesn't absorb heat. Does that make any sense? No doubt in my mind that's what it does.

The cooling device mounting is plenty pressure to hold it still isn't it?

Oh yea and the screws are super close if not touching my case. I could cut that part out, but the next board may have the Cpu located in a different area and I don't want to hack the motherboard tray up.

So look. The black plasic thing that holds the cpu in place. Not the metal hold down that's flipped up. The black thing is glued on right? No worries? The Cpu should pretty much stay put?

This is NOT an exact picture of MY board. just an example cause mine looks like this one.

I've removed the metal bracket before with no ill harm, just make sure not to over due when you tighten the block down........................

[ShrimpBrime]

@Philly.... I figured as much. I left the bracket on and decided to play with the cheaper AM3+ stuff instead. NP

And here's a few pictures for ya fellas! This is FX-6100 under my monster 40mm peltier.

The PSU is great for running a TEC. 12v with 30 amps. Upgraded the trickle fan for something that pushes a lot of air to keep the PSU nice and cool. It is in fact louder than the rest of the system now lolz.

Plenty of frost there, should prove the feezy freezingness of the frozen cpu cores.

4ghz is the best I can pull off. The copper plate just isn;t thick enough, but I do plan on testing different thicknesses.

[PhIlLy ChEeSe]

Is that Di electric grease? I use eraser, yeah you have to take the brackets off the P67 + Z77 boards as there are tinny openings if not. It just makes it easier n cleaner, I used that grease one time! Got it all over the place,need some more let me know no need for the rest of it.

[ShrimpBrime]

Philly sorry for the delayed response....

That is petroleum jelly. The stuff works great. But yea, I use di-electrical grease as well.

The black bead is Permatex High temp silicon gasket maker. Used primarily in automotive, I apply it for a permanent seal. It's water tight and stand up to the cold really well too.

OEM specified. For dealership warranty requirements, Ultra Black® ensures extended drivetrain warranty compliance. Fast-curing formula. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets. Retains high flexibility, oil resistant properties through use of a patented adhesion system. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration.

http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex--ultra-black--maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail

[Neuromancer]

I thought the bulldozers do 4+ GHz on air cooling?

[ShrimpBrime]

I thought the bulldozers do 4+ GHz on air cooling?

With all cores running, the TDP of the cpu exceeds that of the cold side of the peltier, which is 136w cooling power. (roughly)

I can get a 5ghz submission with all but 2 cores shut off.

4.6ghz on 4 cores is about the max.

Frozen at idle at any speed......

TECs are a challenge no doubt.

Speaking of "air" cooling, I've run a sempron 140 without a heat sink at all. I had the cpu around 2ghz .9v (or less) and a fan on the IHS plate. Shut off a core it's a 25w cpu, lower volts and clocks, you don't need a heat sink ;)

[kikicoco1334]

thb, 4.6 and 5ghz is about the same. as far as gaming goes.

some guys here may think it differently but still...
I have my chip at 4.2 and that's as far as it'll go

I kinda gave up on TEC at this point.

[ShrimpBrime]

I give up on them and then take it back up again.

it's amazing how some of the lower end cpu'z will stay frozen under this TEC. But for some reason, I always try cooling massive TDP output processors instead.......

Perhaps next time, I'll find something a little lower end just to play with again..... some day :D