Preliminary testing for upcoming build

[Witchdoctor]

I am going retro on you guys as I have the itch to build something really special

We hve all done builds with water I am sure, tea the temps blow and the performance is sub par for what we typically do around here, but never the less just feel like doing something fun and at the same time create an epic gaming rig

The idea came to me prolly like a year ago when our good friend gave me a heads up that he new of a Coolit Boreas chiller that had become availible. If you have ever tried to find one you know how difficult it is

So enough BS today I hooked it up to see what kind of performance I could exspect and being I have no idea i am not sure if it is good or bad for this unit, but one thing is certain, way better than ambient water from what i can tell
If anyone has any input if this is above or below average for this unit as always any input is appreciated, also could not find a way to flash to the latest firmware ?

here are a few pics of the results at stock clocks

[rickss69]

Yep, you are going to like it alot. Ran my 980X @ 5Ghz no problem and you know the heat those produce. I found little difference in performance using an aftermarket water block vs the stock one...entirely up to you. Sent you a link for a store bought usb header cable. ;)

Oh yeah...keep an eye out for condensation on your water block. You will see it first on the tec chambers on the Boreas unit. If you plan on cranking it "down" it might be prudent to do a little masking, eraser, DragonSkin or combination thereof just in case. It only sweats under certain climate conditions.

[Mr.Scott]

Cool unit, pardon the pun. :laughing:
It's a self contained, TEC based, AIO liquid setup. Not the most efficient method but still effective. It appears that it's not as effective as my homemade chiller, but it's much more compact and probably easier to set up. Those things went for like $600 in their hayday. Nice find, what did you pay for it?

[rickss69]

Would love to see some pic's of your set-up MrScott...Brian and I remember an epic chiller build from another life and another forum lol. :)

[Witchdoctor]

yea I would liek to see it as well

$ 500.00 shipped ..... ouch


Rick, I saw Gunners chiller in person, epic performance but a craftsman he is not, it ended up being out of square .......... :laughing:

Being I am OCD, it would drive me up the wall and even offerd to fix it for him :blink:

Oh yea, where is the tool in the software to flash the latest firmware ?


I just got this up and running, there are settings to adjust the chiller to lower or higher temps, my target is to cool 2 or 3 780's and a Hasswell or my X79 set up. may even do MB cooling as well with it, This will actually be inside the case and the adjusability should come in handy as I want to be only one or two degrees above it condensing as it will be my 24/7 rig

Overclocking testing will be next them will be adding rads and resevoirs to see how they effect performance as the final build will need to disapate a lot of heat

Notice chiller A light is not lit ???

[rickss69]

yea I would liek to see it as well

$ 500.00 shipped ..... ouch


Rick, I saw Gunners chiller in person, epic performance but a craftsman he is not, it ended up being out of square .......... :laughing:

Being I am OCD, it would drive me up the wall and even offerd to fix it for him :blink:

Oh yea, where is the tool in the software to flash the latest firmware ?


I just got this up and running, there are settings to adjust the chiller to lower or higher temps, my target is to cool 2 or 3 780's and a Hasswell or my X79 set up. may even do MB cooling as well with it, This will actually be inside the case and the adjusability should come in handy as I want to be only one or two degrees above it condensing as it will be my 24/7 rig

Overclocking testing will be next them will be adding rads and resevoirs to see how they effect performance as the final build will need to disapate a lot of heat

If I remember correctly it kind of resembled a hot tub lol.

If you try to cool all of that you will never have to worry about condensation.

Here is the Boreas under a load... http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/5GHzat144volts.jpg

[Mr.Scott]

Would love to see some pic's of your set-up MrScott...Brian and I remember an epic chiller build from another life and another forum lol. :)

It's nothing elaborate. Old water cooler hotwired to full on, thermostat bypassed, with a small pump outputting to a waterblock. Tank is filled with a D-water/dexcool mix. I can get down to roughly -20c, but the recovery time blows. It's good for short blasts only. 32m on a AMD X4 with good voltage to it is a tough go. I'll start out below 0 and by the time it finishes I'm around 25c. Still better than ambient though. ;) Stuff less demanding like Socket A, PIII's, 939, 754, etc. is no big deal most of the time.
It will be replaced soon...........hopefully with Rick's old cascade unit. :D

Quick old pic.

[rickss69]

On updating that firmware...it was always a little flaky getting it to take. I think you open up the app then it will prompt you to reset the controller...the button is recessed beside the usb connection. From your screenshots it appears you have it at 100% already.

[Witchdoctor]

Looks pretty epic Scott, nice mod bro ........... :thumbsup:

Wow those max temps seem pretty high. What setting did you have it on, just cranked it down to 10C coolant target and it runs 0C to 5 C idol but on linux load only 1C drop from above loaded pic

[rickss69]

Oh, that's high tech stuff there Scott! My efforts were much more barbaric lol...like a milk jug of frozen water or my homemade slush bucket I used to feed from the ice maker at work every night haha.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00059.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00058.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00256.jpg

I know nothing of linux...try some WPrime and see what it does. I can't imagine mine being below 100% on purpose at 5Ghz.

[Witchdoctor]

Yea I did, same temps as both tax at 100% CPU usage

I will be working on clocks this week, see what happens with temps then :thumbsup:

Once I get it clocked up them I can start testing with rads and see what effect it has on temps, if it does not nee any may need to look at a different case as the one I have my eye on has a total capacity 120.22 .......... :laughing:

Have an e-mail into Caselabs to see how wide the HD Power supply side s as i need 6 3/4" to accomidate this unit

[Kal-EL]

Lubbin it.

[Splave]

:D more threads like this please :D

[rickss69]

I still have the Silverstone case modified by Coolit for the Boreas that has not seen use for some time... ;)

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00384.jpg

[Witchdoctor]

That's a dam nice case ......... :thumbsup:

E-mailed Caselabs for PS bay dementions, shuold have an answer back tonight

Looking at 38MM Yate Loon lowspeed fans as the provide a tremendouse amount static pressures and 45 CFM and are resonabky priced for the replacments on the boken one on the unit, replacing both as I do not know how critical it is for them to be matched

Thanks to UPS

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=25284

I have some 38 mm 130CFM Y & S fans but they are like a jet taking off ...

[Witchdoctor]

Tryed ramping it up to 5GHz tonight, got it to boot int the OS. but was not able to get it stable enough to do any real load test. Here are the idol results at 4988 MHz

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6658&stc=1&d=1358988166

Temps look good but as soon as I put load on it it shoots into the 70s and then crashes. need to work on stabelizing this, it takes a complete different set of settings than sub ambient ..... :ohcrap:

Think most of my problems lie in Chiiler A not working, Have the right cable coming from Newegg if DHL ever finds my house, there was a time when Newegg was actually intrested in customer service. Anyway I am not so sure I am in controll if the unit with the half assed rigging i did. Once I have the cable I am hoping to be abel to flash the newer firmware on it. From what I have read this solves many issues. Once I get both chillers on the job hoping for a better result.

Grabbed a case and some fans last night so I am officially broke now

Went with the TH10 From Case Labs that I may or may not do a quick review on.

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6659&stc=1&d=1358989001

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6660&stc=1&d=1358989001

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6661&stc=1&d=1358989001

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6664&stc=1&d=1358989020

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6662&stc=1&d=1358989001


http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6663&stc=1&d=1358989020

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6665&stc=1&d=1358989375

Pretty cool, the MB tray has feet you can attatch for a quick and easy tech station

This is the last case I am buying, it will be willed to my son .......... :laughing:

Grabbed some fans as well

For the rads

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181025

For the case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233100

Now if I can just get this dam cabel and get the unit working up to potencial I could move on with this testing ..........

[Kal-EL]

Crosses fingers for 5ghz wire from DHL.

[DOM]

Delid it :laughing:

[Mr.Scott]

Looky what I found.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1078_1008&products_id=35714

[rickss69]

Looky what I found.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1078_1008&products_id=35714

Think I will call and make an offer of $500 shipping included. ;)

[GFDuke]

Temps look good but as soon as I put load on it it shoots into the 70s and then crashes. need to work on stabelizing this,


I think you have a bad mount.

[Witchdoctor]

I will re set it, but being stock clocks scale with temp I am thinking that second chiller stage will hopefully be the answer

[Neuromancer]

Temps look good but as soon as I put load on it it shoots into the 70s and then crashes. need to work on stabelizing this,

...

Try rotating your waterblock mount 90 degrees.

[Witchdoctor]

Well it looks like I had a good mount, but remounted after a quarter turn. Cable arrived today, DHL official blows .... turns out they got it and mailed it via USPS :Dizzy:

So it went from UPS then to DHL then to the USPS ..... thinking I should send it to fedX so everyone gets to handel it .............. WTF ...

Just plugged it in and it seems to be working, Updating firmware in hope to fire up Chiller A. This should in therory double my capacity. I have read this is a total PITA to get to take, but it seems to be but not finished yet ....... one dot at a time, pain and suffering. If it and when it does take I will be able to move on to testing again.... fingers crossed

Thing is condensing like crazy, first I have seen this, Hope this is a good sign :thumbsup:

Edit:

Firmware updated ok

Still do not know if both chillers are working as the chiller A light is still off while B stays lit ???? Anybody know what the skinny is

5Ghz did not prove to be possible within reasonable voltage for the cooling solution

Here are a couple of screen shots that show this unit has limited capacity

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6674&stc=1&d=1359501537

Things start to heat up a bit at 1.384 core and 4.789 GHz
At these setting the condisation problem has been elimiated :laughing:

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6675&stc=1&d=1359501537

This is where if the unit is utilizing both chillers A & B it gets a bit alarming and may be 5 Ghz is beyond its capabilities. at just a 100 mhz increase and a .024 core increase I get a rise in max temp by 6C.... Notice the the Coolit Graph is gone as framework took a dump during the run but did not crash the system. Have to say I am a bit disapointed with the results thus far. I am hopefull that I am doing something wrong and the second chiller is not on or adding a res better pump and a rad will help solidify the swings on this as they are wicked, note above post at 4.988 idol temps. I think increasing water and volume will hurt the idol temps but infact help stablize and lower loads temps, but we will see soon enough. Time for dinner :thumbsup:

[rickss69]

Something is amiss buddy...you know darn well if I could run the 980X at over 5GHz with the Boreas it is more than possible with your hardware. Let me see if I can dig up some screenshots.

114.9c reading is just wacky...you should never see anything remotely close to that. Change your settings:

Coolant Target Temp - 0

Max Chiller power - 100

Min Chiller power - 100

Max allowed - 0

Min allowed - 0

Can't seem to locate all my screenshots. You remember that Coolit contest I won with the 980X in the SFF case running at 5GHz ? All you guys popped in and voted for me lol. I know I ran a bunch of benches at 5GHz on that crappy Micro board and never had a problem with temps. Surely your current chip is more capable than the 980X. I'll keep searching for screens...also, close out that crap Coolit graph and rely on RealTemp. Your temps look great from what I have seen.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00561.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00574.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00571.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00575.jpg

The same funky chip I won the SPI contest with lol! :taunt:

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00508-2.jpg

[Witchdoctor]

Yea somthing seems wrong, does both your A & B chiller lights on, or just one like mine? I have no way of knowing ? Would like to get this sorted before i start introducing other components so I can get a true comparison. M-tech software is a bit flaky on Win 7 ....... :ohcrap: for these clocks High 60's seem kinda ordinary, does anyone know where ambient water is at these clocks and voltages ? it been so long kinda out of touch with what to expect ???

[DOM]

I'll check my temps when I get home ran 4.9Ghz @ 1.4v for a while forgot I even had it oced :laughing:

But this is my delidded cpu on water not sure of its still a good comparison XD

[Witchdoctor]

Awsome, better than nutin ........... :thumbsup:

This CPU does 5 Ghz at 1.285 at -50C

Ambient it just bites, need lots of volts ...... :shock:

[rickss69]

Yes, your temps seem very normal to me. Change those settings and run WPrime again for a comparison. I'll try to rig something similar up here to attempt to answer some of your questions.

Screen from awhile back...I don't think I had both A and B joined and I'm sure the Boreas was not performing as well as yours is atm. Look where the temps began on mine...

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/5GHzat144volts.jpg

Keep in mind that the Boreas is nothing more than a decked out water cooling solution...it aint God lol. You can't run much of anything at 5GHz steady diet and expect it to fare well for long....even with a ss. I think you can do 5GHz easily with the Boreas when you want or for bragging rights, but I would save another tamer profile in bios for daily duty. ;)

[Witchdoctor]

Wow that is a huge help Rick, yea I was thinking this would do 5Ghz in the 50's or low 60's

Looks like I was over estimating a bit. I appreciate you taking the time bro, I will rerun at the new settings when I get home form work tonight. If Dom can chime in with ambient water that will really start to tell the story of how effective this is at these clocks.

Don't plan on benching this unit competetivly, what my goal with this build is flat out top 24/7 bullet proof clocks.
Just want to build something over the top that is a complete waste of money and resources just for the fun of it. ............... :laughing:

[DOM]

okay im back from running after work :shock:


D5 pump, 480 Rad, 7970 full wb, enzotech wb (http://www.enzotechnology.com/scw_reva.htm), t-line

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6677&stc=1&d=1359553197

[Witchdoctor]

That's awsome Dom .............. :thumbsup:

Thanke bro

Ambient temp ?

Ambient water 1.408v 4899Mhz (75) (83) (85) (78)

Ambient temp = 21C

Cool it Boreas 1.408v 4889MHZ (67) (69) (67) (58)

So on average across all 4 cores we are looking at 80.25C on ambient water and 65.25 on the Cool it

15C better, that is actually not to shabby :)

that is only $ 33.33 a degree based on what I pad for it, worth every penny .... :thumbsup:

This is promising to say the least. What will better blocks and pumps do, Possibly a rad,can it get me the 5 to 10 degrees I was hoping for as my origional thought going into procees saw me getting 20C better than ambient water, this may be acheivable after all.
I will test tonight with the setting Rick gave me and see if I can improve the staock results before tearing it down and adding componets

[Gunslinger]

Jesus that's nice, on "high end" water, similar ambient temps, I'm seeing peak temps touch 88F on my 3770K. 4C/4T at 4.6 and 1.3V

Cooling loop consists of a Swifty MCP-355 with Acetal top, 2x MCR320's and an EK Supreme LTX, 6x low speed yate loons.

[rickss69]

My bet is you will see more improvement once those settings are applied. :good:

[Witchdoctor]

Jesus that's nice, on "high end" water, similar ambient temps, I'm seeing peak temps touch 88F on my 3770K. 4C/4T at 4.6 and 1.3V

Cooling loop consists of a Swifty MCP-355 with Acetal top, 2x MCR320's and an EK Supreme LTX, 6x low speed yate loons.


Wow that seems high at those voltages, great block and pump, has to be the rad preformance. High speed fans or move to a rad around 7 to 8 FPI

Coolgate has a nice product that is not the best at anything but actally performs well under many different fan speeds and at 8FPI the low speed one's work really well

Either that or the pump may have lost a step ....


Hope your right Rick, will know in a few hours ............. :thumbsup:

[DOM]

70F Ambient

[rickss69]

I already know what it is capable of as far as the cpu goes. I'm more interested in what it might do for gpu's...never tested it in that fashion. ;)

[Witchdoctor]

Set the Boreas to these settings

Coolant Target Temp - 0
Max Chiller power - 100
Min Chiller power - 100
Max allowed - 0
Min allowed - 0


Ambient temp 21.1C

Ambient water 1.408v 4899Mhz (75) (83) (85) (78) = 80.25C

Ambient temp = 21C

Cool it Boreas on stock settings 1.408v 4889MHZ (67) (69) (67) (58) = 65.25C

The following tests are with new Boreas settings above

Ambient temp = 20.5C

Cool it Boreas Stock fans 1.408v 4889MHZ (64) (67) (65) (56) = 63C
The settings Rick provided are win as temps across all cores dropped overall dropped 2.25C with only .5C difference in test conditions for an overall gain of 1.75C

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6678&stc=1&d=1359586390


http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6679&stc=1&d=1359586390

Now it is on to seeing what is the best possible fan to use with this unit

Ambient temp = 21C

Cool it Boreas Y&S 138 CFM cut your finger off fans 1.408v 4889MHZ (65) (68) (65) (57) = 63.75C

As you can see not much gain here other than decibals. Even know ambient went up .5C three of the cores gained a full degree, probably within the margin of error for Realtemp so I have to call this a tie

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6680&stc=1&d=1359586914



http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6681&stc=1&d=1359586914


Ambient temp = 21C

Cool it Boreas Y.L. 38MM low speed 49CFM fans 1.408v 4889MHZ (67) (70) (68) (65) = 65.75C

Here are the Y.L. 38mm low speed fans. some significant temp gains here 2.75 average that with the testing condition being .5C higher still ends up being a gain of 2.25C, but wait a minute, were they running, I don't know as all I could here was the stock POS pump that they obviously did not spend any extra money on.... :laughing:
Seriously though unaudable .... (((side note, Does anyone know that static pressure of these fans ? Yate Loon D12SL-D12 , if over 1.3 mm/H2O I mat go with these for my rads on this build)))
On point again I may live with this increase as both the stock and high speed fan are obtrusivly loud and with a good pump this system would be undetectable .... stealthin FTW :thumbsup:

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6682&stc=1&d=1359587658


http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6683&stc=1&d=1359587658

To sum up tonights testing I would say Cool it has found a sweet spot with the fans as higher speed fans don't help and low speed fans loose ground. Have to think on if it worth it for silence ....

Also Rick's settings for the Boreas are WIN .................. :thumbsup:

And last but not least the pump that comes with it is loud and it rattels but never noticed until the Yates Loon fans were on it ........ :laughing:

[Splave]

sweeet

[MaadDaawg]

NICE :thumbsup: WD :clapping:

[Witchdoctor]

Thanks guys,

Ordering some 1/4" fittings for the next round of testing. Adding legit pump and res into the loop ........ :)

[ThreeDhero]

Nice temps on water!

[Witchdoctor]

Well I finally got my 1/2" x 1/4" fittings

Tomight I introduced a res and 655 B pump that would be the same as a D5 multi speed pump on setting 4

Using the Y & S fans at an ambient of 20.5C

1.408v 4889MHZ (65) (67) (65) (55) = 63C

being it is a half of a degree celsius and the total package only dropped by .75C I have to say this would be with in the margin of error, so no benefit here ......... but wait there's more, for some reason that I have not figured out yet it has raised my idol temps 2C and is still giving me the same load temps ....

This is actually a good thing as I am having no condensation what so ever, So the res and pump combo in effect has had a positive impact on the overall validity of using this ina 24/7 rig

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6704&stc=1&d=1360382129



http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6705&stc=1&d=1360382129

And although not applicable to the testing the pump res has made a hair shy of 5GHz possible even with this POS chip, temps arn't bad considering the volts. On indoor ambient water it would be a melt down .........

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6706&stc=1&d=1360382694

The next and final step of this preliminary testing will be to introduce a Fesser Quad Exchanger into the loop. I am thinkiing it will increase my idol temps yet again, this does not bother me as I hope it will contain the wicked curve I get under load. Hoping for a few more degree's .......... :clapping:

With a decent chip who knows may be able to get 5.0 Ghz 24/7 stable :)

[Neuromancer]

Are you water cooling the hot side of the TECs or the cold side?

[Witchdoctor]

The cold side and the hot side is disapated into the aluminum coil and the fans pull ambient throught the coil

[DOM]

wouldnt it be better to cool the hot side ?

[Neuromancer]

Thats how TEC cooling usually works, because Radiators add temps to subambient cooling however he is blowing past the TEC wattage capabilites so i warming the TECs in exchange for adding maximum cooling capability.

Its why the boreas only sold 2 units lol.

[Witchdoctor]

Here it is, the good bad and the ugly ....

Adding a rad to this system turned out to be an epic fail. Adding the ambient to the loop did raise the idol temps to a comfortable level that would in fact never condense.
However the Boreas unit simply does not have to capacity to cool the added heat that is added to the loop

Ambient = 20C

1.408v 4889MHZ (75) (79) (74) (67) = 73.75C

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6710&stc=1&d=1360504583

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6709&stc=1&d=1360504583

While these results were for told by Rick I could have saved a lot of work by listening ........... :laughing: But I had to find out for myself and had some fun doing it and was able to bring pretty strong results being the test conditions were controlled as close as I possible could to obtain viable results

Here is a table showing all the results from the test in one place

http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6711&stc=1&d=1360504583

While this is not the typical here at OCA as we are usually talking about chillers, Phase, dice or Ln2 temps this unit seems to be pretty much a joke in those terms. However I am not trying to compare this unit in those terms, but in terms of a water cooled 24/7 rigs

While it is undisputable this unit does have limited capacity, It is also undisputable that it is crushing ambient water to the tune of 15C, in those terms this unit is nothing less than impressive as all of us have played with water and fought over a few degree's sometime or other. So while I was Hoping for a 20C to 25C advantage over ambient water I find it hard to be disappointed with the results

To sum it the final spec going into my upcoming build will be small res w/D5pump. I will be using a higher quality high flow block to maximize flow in hopes to grab a degree or two. I will be surrendering a few degrees as I am opting to use the Yates Silent fans as the trade off is worth it for a 24/7 rig IMO

Thanks for reading ....... :thumbsup:

[rickss69]

So, what are your plans on testing this on the cards Brian? I really would like to see how the Boreas can hold up there.:)

Going to give one of these a spin on the next project, but will likely have to move from my mid-towers to full in order to fit it.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709001

[Witchdoctor]

I have decided to use a dual loop. I just do not think this unit is up to the job if I add GPU's into the loop, I am going to use this to maximize CPU clocks as I think I will reap the best results, The thinking is with 2 over cards at 230 watts a piece at stock clocks I will be looking 460 watts and if I go tri 690 watts ... that's stock ......... :ohcrap:

Overclocked it could get ugly .......... :blink:

My thinking is I would have to water couple this unit and even then it could struggle. That plus would probably have to buy higher capacity TEC's. I am speculating but I am thinking possible only a 5C advantage over ambient, that being said I have the room for 3x 480 rads to cool them so one to argue I will have ambient water coming back to them.

So looking at the TEC to cool the CPU and typical ambient water cooling for the GPU's ...Mind you that the typical water cooling will be over the top

I would have like to see as well, but thinking it is a waste of time and money as I would have to buy blocks that would not be used for the build just to find out where I stand and with the CPU testing results I am convinced this unit would be crushed by a tri SLI set up. Single card set up I do believe would be a worthwhile endeavor, I think this unit would bring some great results under those circumstances.

[rickss69]

Probably a wise move. I long ago relegated the Boreas to bench duties as it just shines there...good performance and easy to make quick changes cross platform.

Most likely I will stick with high-end air coolers like the one linked above for my gamers...much less to deal with and can still run decent overclocks if desired. Latest video cards are beastly on their own with stock cooling. :good:

[Witchdoctor]

From the test results I am excited to get started on the build, it will defenatly be way overkill for simple 24/7 gaming, but that is what this upcoming build is all about, Overkill, excess and cool looking are the goals

basically building it for the fun of it all ........ :laughing:

Benching has become an LN2 only sport , at least if you want to compete at a high level

[rickss69]

I would like to see you build a furniture grade such as this one... http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/279362-28-custom-wooden-case I know you have the skills...I would like one myself. :clapping:

[Witchdoctor]

Funny you should say that, I compenplated doing a built in. Ultimantly I decided against it as I thought upgrading would a major PITA ... and TBH do not have the milling tools to do a top flight job. Although not sure if Bren still does cabinetry? he possees such tools and skill set required to build furniture grade from the ground up.

The best I could do would to be to by a mice piece and mod it from there

But a simple granit toped desk with a cut out and a glass insert is all you would need for a great start.

[ShrimpBrime]

Yep... Air don't cut the mustard with these Tecs.

Keep on modding Witch. The more you play, the more you'll understand. ;)

Remove min 2 watts of heat for every unit chilled and you'll have some awesome temps.

I can tell you that the cooler the hot side loop gets the better. Don't be afraid of trying Ice in a bucket on that loop to get them Peltiers well into negative temps on the chiller side.

Ever need anything with this TEC stuff for suggestions bro, please don't be afraid to ask.

EDIT:

In fact, I have a 130w (chilling power) TEC. All I need is an addy, and I can send it out. I'd like you to experiment with it on the side. Use different voltages and what not.

Not sure if starting a little smaller would help any with a TEC that can actually cool a Cpu by it's self. up to you, I have a PM box here too ;)

[Witchdoctor]

Thanks Shrimp,

But as I have been saying this will be a 24/7 rig that is contained with in a case's confines, Although I wanted better temps as stated 15C less than ambient water is nothing to scoff at on a 24/7 rig

Buckets of ice, seperate chillers, cold boxes phase, dice, LN2 or simply throwing a 480 out the window all would be viable options for better temps

These methods while effective are not what I am looking for. It all has to fit in a case that you can pick up and carry away. This is for a custom build gamer. at 15C under it's counterparts in the catagory should provide epic results

Pretty much rolling with what i have at this point, I was thinking about your idea of using two of the blocks for cooling them with water but while I am convince this is an epic idea I am alsoi convivced this would condense as I am on the verge of condesing using air. This would be an usatisfactory for the parameters of the build

When I want to bench seriously I would be straping the pot on the bencher anyway

[ShrimpBrime]

Any one can throw a pot on something. That's just sooo easy. Dry Ice right at the walmart even.....

Cpu Block - Rad - Res - Pump - Chiller blocks - back to Cpu block.

Tec hot side

TEC block Rad - Rad -Rad (push pull fans) -res pump - back to tec block.

The hot side TEC blocks will get hot. To optimize heat dissipation, put fans right on those hot ass water blocks.

Expect needing negative Cpu liquid temps in order to perform 40c loads on 130w roughly. -15 to -25 ought to do it. Condensation depends on hose thickness. The thicker the better. Contain the chilled liquid will work best.

Some minor sealing around the Cpu heat sink couldn't hurt for just in case. I don't think you'll get frost on and through the board in my honest opinion. If you move enough air flow around the water block and hoses, you might not see condensation at all.

[Witchdoctor]

I hear ya bro.

BTW,

Nice ride you are sporting these days .............. :thumbsup:

[ShrimpBrime]

I hear ya bro.

BTW,

Nice ride you are sporting these days .............. :thumbsup:

Couldn't beat the 229 price tag at MicroCenter. A little bit of a drive but worth it IMO.

I should try TEC cooling it? (seriously) I have a peilter that'll handle this at stock. This 3770K actually runs pretty cool at stock on regular water. I was thinking of de-lidding it, but I have troubles enough with the chip past 4.8ghz and I'd hate to run 1.5+ volts just for 5ghz and benchmarking. I know I don't have a single TEC that could handle it alone past probably 1.250v give or take. At least not a 40mm TEC.

Another neat thing I've wanted to try is cold plate heat sinks. TECs need a lot of surface area, especially to be cooled. They are constant heat pumps. http://www.aavid.com/product-group/liquidcoldplates

[Witchdoctor]

What are your temps and core for 4.8 ?

[ShrimpBrime]

1.380v min and 1.410 seems to keep stability better. Temps are in the mid to late 60s core #1 likes to spike the hardest to 72c - settle in temps are in the 60s mid to high short tested 2 hours OCCT and Prime95.

Anything more to the above I can run the chiller up to 1.5v for stability at 5.1ghz. haven't seen 5.2ghz without a blue screen.

Most settings you gave me for the Gene applied and work pretty good for the 5ghz. I did benchamrk Pimod, nothing much more than that.

With HT shut off, 5ghz is in the 60's and with only 2 cores I can get it in the 50's Spikes in the late 60s.

But 5ghz daily stable won't happen with this one unfortunately.

BLCK clock made a max of 107 postable 106 in windows on 35x multi.

additional commentary:

The GTX-480 on the same loop, it clocks 940/2050 pretty much max on the first PCB for the card. It humps along pretty good. If I removed this from the loop, the Cpu temps "should" drop dramatically. I just don't have enough stuff to make 2 loops. Space really isn't a problem....

[Witchdoctor]

Nice results ..... :thumbsup:

whats your ambient ......... ?

Temps seem very low :)

[ShrimpBrime]

Ambient is 19c - 22c - Dual 120.2 rads - modded ThermalTake waterblock from BigWater series - Using s775 mounting plates (the board had holes for it! Tubes are 1/2" OD 3/8" ID Nylon clear liquid is a mix of ammonia and alcohol and Thermal take green and CoolerMaster neon reactive Blue and some windshield washer fluid.

So at stock keeping the i7 at around 45c (loaded) give or take unchilled is no problem. I still got to get F@H going for some long hauling. I did let it cruise at 4.2ghz on 1.288v over night. I didn't complete any packets, but it seems to fold the same as my AMD just has more threads to do it with. Surely no doubt it's faster, but the work units are different so I won't know any numbers until I get that itch again.

Aspiring OverclockerCute

[Witchdoctor]

Mmonia and alcohole, I have read about but never seen anyone do it, better than distiilled and nuke ?

I think you will like the Intel's , there defenatly the big blocks of the CPU world. Being I don't know what platform I will be building on it is hard to say what clocks I will end up at. But 5GHz 24/7 would be cool, but definatly overkill for most tasks. Who knows if work does not pick up soon I may just be putting my current SB-E platform in it with some new GPU's and possibly a better board.

I would like to see what Haswell brings to the table and if Intel goes the way of TIM or soldering the IHS. hopefully the latter

[ShrimpBrime]

I'd hope for solder myself... better heat transfer.

Told ya I like my diamond paste. Just takes a little bit to settle in ;)

[Witchdoctor]

from my testing TX2 seems to work best for ambient ...... :thumbsup:

But did not test the stuff you are talking about

[ShrimpBrime]

Antec Formula 6 and they did make a formula 7. I found the 6 to be almost as good as the 7 at a cheaper price.

Most Thermal pastes work well if just the right amount is used. But I'm sure you know the ropes plenty well. TX2 is great stuff. Probably works better than what I'm using by a deg or so. I'm not that picky. I'll just go adjust my thermostat on the wall :D

[Witchdoctor]

Well it is back to the drwing board, the unit did not fit in the case, Bone head move on my part. need a few weeks and will be working on water to water..........

Thanks for the idea Shrimp, we will see if half the capacity with better disapation can have a positive result.

Just have to figure out how they are staged

[Neuromancer]

I'd hope for solder myself... better heat transfer.

Told ya I like my diamond paste. Just takes a little bit to settle in ;)

diamond paste is a bitch to work with, and since it needs to really be super heated to apply it well (I stuck it in front of an electric heater for 15 minutes on time and it spread nicely) I would guess it is not very effective (CPUs just dont get that hot).

Not to mention that two applications and you can no longer read the IHS

[ShrimpBrime]

diamond paste is a bitch to work with, and since it needs to really be super heated to apply it well (I stuck it in front of an electric heater for 15 minutes on time and it spread nicely) I would guess it is not very effective (CPUs just dont get that hot).

Not to mention that two applications and you can no longer read the IHS

Super heated?

Well AS5 also needs a burn in too. Was a very popular thermal paste.

The Diamond paste needs to be used in the proper amount. Not too much not too little type of thing.

To each his own - I've had good luck with house hold items too!

[Neuromancer]

As5 burin I never found to be true. Always ran better wet than dry.

As for superheated I was referring to application for diamond paste.

I would love for that stuff to be great, I got enough of it for free and the idea behind it is awesome. It just sucks though, I really cant say enough bad stuff about it for the average user. It really sucks and everyone should stay away from using it. thats my opinion, I have tried it for a while over the last few years (various IC iterations) Its is finger breaking to get it out of the tube, there is no spreading it, it erases your CPU and like every other thermal pastes it makes no differnce in temperatures.

but whatever is easiest to spread. if you change yuor heatinsk a whole lot? Use ketchup or toothpaste. (LOL JK on the last bit, just saiyng AS5 or other easy spread is fine)

[rickss69]

I forget where I read this, but it was stated that the type of compound used in a de-lidded cpu had little to do with resulting temp drops. When put back together the gap was reduced between the lid and the IHS from stock...this was the reason for the better performance. Think about it...has any paste you ever used had that much effect on temps from one to another?

[DOM]

I use glied oc extreme and tried the free sample oc icd 24 diamond paste was just a few degrees cooler on idle and load but that stuff stains cooper it seems and fades the letters on the ihs and smells when you ran it for a while when removing the cpu block

[Witchdoctor]

I like TX2 for ambient and the Gield OCE for cold

That is the program I am on

TX2 did 3C better than Ceramic on the SS

Now that could either be it is better or I had a better mount when I did the TX2 as opposed to the Ceramic

sorta pissing in the wind with TIM, think every one has their favorite and I believe everyone has measured differences, but as above the mount itself is the deal breaker IMO not nessesarily the TIM ...

I know the white cap OCZ Freeze did a good job and they changed to a blue cap and it blew ........ :Dizzy:

[ShrimpBrime]

As5 burin I never found to be true. Always ran better wet than dry.

As for superheated I was referring to application for diamond paste.

I would love for that stuff to be great, I got enough of it for free and the idea behind it is awesome. It just sucks though, I really cant say enough bad stuff about it for the average user. It really sucks and everyone should stay away from using it. thats my opinion, I have tried it for a while over the last few years (various IC iterations) Its is finger breaking to get it out of the tube, there is no spreading it, it erases your CPU and like every other thermal pastes it makes no differnce in temperatures.

but whatever is easiest to spread. if you change yuor heatinsk a whole lot? Use ketchup or toothpaste. (LOL JK on the last bit, just saiyng AS5 or other easy spread is fine)

Wow you got a sample tube and based an opinion on all diamond paste for it? Or you got a specific tube of Antec F6 or F7 and had a bad experience?

I had no better luck with AS5 than I have with using different types of never seize. Wouldn't recommend it to any one. Or any paste similar to it.

I forget where I read this, but it was stated that the type of compound used in a de-lidded cpu had little to do with resulting temp drops. When put back together the gap was reduced between the lid and the IHS from stock...this was the reason for the better performance. Think about it...has any paste you ever used had that much effect on temps from one to another?

Not sure.... When I delided the 940BE, I saw a massive temp drop putting the core right on the waterblock. It worked better than the solder dropping temps some 10c or so. Can't remember that one, been a while. But I do know once you delid something, the only time the IHS plate goes back on is for sale ;)

@ Witchdoctor.... TIM on sub zero temps is good if it doesn't freeze. Personally, I could care less if the pot freezes to the board, I've used water under my LN/DICE pot on a few occasions when tim was running low.

Fun stuff, yes arguing TIM and performance is a moot point among extreme cooling individuals......