Moving into colder waters-build log I guess

[ny_driver]

Question...is this the temperature sensor? Must be seeing how it's right in front of the intake. Can someone please confirm my assumption.

[Hondacity]

it is... you can start a new thread in xtreme cooling

[ny_driver]

I probably will, but just had a quick question. Thanks.:thumbsup: Build Log (http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3140)

[ny_driver]

So I have gone and boxed in the front of my a/c with 2" thick foam insulation and am just testing it out for something to do. Cold enough to have condensation on my blocks.

I will likely use it this way for a few days anyways. Until I get enough time to build a full fledged water chiller. How long would it take to build it if I had everything I needed?

Is it necessary to cut any lines and have to recharge the system to build a water chiller in a cooler?

Thanks for reading and any advice.


EDIT: 5 runs of IBT and it only hit 38c which is a small improvement.

[FACE]

Looks pretty epic man.

Here's an idea to help with extra condensation in the mean time of building a chiller..... insulate a dryer vent hose on the outside, and run the lines going to/from the a/c unit inside the hose, allowing cold air to be blown along the lines, and all the way to the motherboard, keeping the system cooler outside of the blocks and hoses, reducing condensation.

Any condensation should then be only on the outside of the hose. :thumbsup:

[ny_driver]

Thanks!

I had a bunch of tubular foam insulation laying around so I taped that on the 2 main lines.

I thought I had a problem...it started getting warmer, but now getting colder again. Was down to -15c in the box. I think the base of the sensor unit must have gotten so cold it shut down. Not sure though. Was weird because I put a hot light-bulb near the sensor to keep it warm.

Temps are really no better than without the box, but now my room doesn't get cooled off. :thumbdown:

How cold will my cpu get with a water-chiller?

[FACE]

There is a thread here where GutterZ made an epic chiller that got pretty damn cold. It should be in the water cooling section iirc.

I'll see if I can hunt it down as soon as I get a chance. :thumbsup:

[ny_driver]

Thanks again dude.

Here is a picture of my insulated lines, and also a picture of my temp sensor sticking completely out and I had a lamp right next to it, but the a/c keeps shutting off like it's getting down to temperature.

Ideas?

[Witchdoctor]

If carful no need to recharge refrigerant system

the evap will be submerged .... to chill the water

use some type of glycol to keep mixture from freezing but watch you vicosity to save your pump from pushing sludge though the lines

open or closed loop will work depending on preference

Closd would be cleaner but not as effective

just grab a rubber made cooler for a res ... large enough to submerge evap and closed loop if desired ....

So to get started

1. closed or pump and dump

2. just CPU or GPU loop as well

3. Draw up realistic demensioned drawling of system

4. know size of res and purchase

5. Remove casing from AC unit with out damaging anything

6. Plan and create a fan system/casing/bank for heat removal on the condensor

7. Compresor and eletronics stand to be incoperated with condemnsor or not

8. submerge evap

8. execut water cuircuit in and out of res regaurdless of type

9. Seal said res

9. install blocks/pump/pumps/and fill with gloycol distilled water solution

10. wire up pumps and test

11. fire compresor and let run for an hour

12. test viscosity of loop and adjust as needed

13. Tear da bot up ...... :thumbsup:

this is not meant to be a step by step all inclusive guide... just a generalization of the events that must occure to make this happen ....

Do you have any mechanical ability what so ever as it will be helpful ...

Best of luck ....

[ny_driver]

Excellent summary, thank you. I am fairly mechanically inclined and have tools. :thumbsup: Sounds like I'll be taking the a/c unit out in the shop for awhile.

Quick question....can I just unplug the temp sensor from the board in the a/c?

If carful no need to recharge refrigerant system

the evap will be submerged .... to chill the water

use some type of glycol to keep mixture from freezing but watch you vicosity to save your pump from pushing sludge though the lines

open or closed loop will work depending on preference

Closd would be cleaner but not as effective

just grab a rubber made cooler for a res ... large enough to submerge evap and closed loop if desired ....

So to get started .......................13. Tear da bot up ...... :thumbsup:

this is not meant to be a step by step all inclusive guide... just a generalization of the events that must occure to make this happen ....

Do you have any mechanical ability what so ever as it will be helpful ...

Best of luck ....

[FACE]

I think you have to jumper the thermostat. Just unplugging it doesn't give the desired results.

Your unit could be different though. Try unplugging and see what happens, if that doesn't do the trick, just short it out. :)

[ny_driver]

OK.

I decided to insulate all the tubes. I'm pretty sure it gained me 1-2c. Hard to tell with the thermostat still working.

I should have used some black electrical tape, but I always have way more gray around leftover from work.

[ny_driver]

OK.

I decided to insulate all the tubes. I'm pretty sure it gained me 1-2c. Hard to tell with the thermostat still working.

I should have used some black electrical tape, but I always have way more gray around leftover from work.


UPDATE: I have shorted the 2 wires to the thermostat, and when the temperature inside that box reaches -15c the compressor shuts off. What gives?

oops, I tried to edit, but I flocked it up.

EDIT:

BUT, :blink: whether I leave the thermostat open(wires cut and separated) or closed(wires shorted) it behaves the same way. It shuts off @ -15c, and back on @ +5c(box temperature).

Very strange if you ask me. What should I do?

Here is a picture of......well it's obvious. The entire probe is inside the box.

[Kal-EL]

Odd that it shuts off when the probe is shorted and at -15c. I'm confused, is the evaporator submerged in coolant or did you just put the rad up against the evaporator (cold thingy on the a/c)?

At any rate, here's our buddy Gutter'z v.2 Chiller action: http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1218

[ny_driver]

Naww it's just a box on the front of the a/c. My rad is in the box, obviously, but the a/c is still whole and the -15c is the air temp inside that box.

Like I said I tried with the wires shorted and open, but now I have lengthened the wires to the thermostat so it's easier to work with and it's right on top of a light-bulb now. The compressor should be shutting off any second unless I have it straightened out.

Yup it still shuts off at the same temperature. F$#@$##@!

Thanks for the link.

[Kal-EL]

The only thing I can think of is that the entire unit, including the compressor is getting too cold to function inside that contraption.

I know spfoam1 did a best air temp of -15c in a similar setup that blew -15c air into his sealed pc case.

I've been down the road, it was fun as hell tinkering with it all every day and tweaking till I found absolute best case scenario in efficiency and setup. But, I must say, once you go Ln2/Dice Pot action, you never look back except to say "Man, I wish I skipped that whole chiller phase I went thru" :laughing:

[ny_driver]

Man I'd have the a/c in the shop and the chiller built tonight, but I need to get 3 gallons @ of denatured alcohol, and antifreeze.

[Kal-EL]

Heres a few pics from my quickchange action. I ran a chiller and an ducted a/c unit to the case. The cold air assisted with condensation issues and the insulation on the chiller tubes assisted in the retention of low temps.
http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336

I'm looking for my chiller build pics now.

Gonna update pics below as I find them:

http://www.x-cade.com/uploads/Supes/Superman/790iFTW/chillerworkinIt%20001%20(Large).jpg
http://www.x-cade.com/uploads/Supes/Superman/790iFTW/chillerworkinIt%20002%20(Large).jpg
http://www.x-cade.com/uploads/Supes/Superman/790iFTW/chillerworkinIt%20003%20(Large).jpg
http://www.x-cade.com/uploads/Supes/Superman/790iFTW/ChillerMOD.jpeg
http://www.x-cade.com/uploads/Supes/Superman/Minus%2034%20C.jpg



CHILLER ON GPU 9800GX2 + north bridge
http://www.x-cade.com/uploads/Supes/Superman/TEMP/Jankpot/JankTested008.jpg
http://www.x-cade.com/uploads/Supes/Superman/TEMP/Jankpot/JankTested010.jpg

[ny_driver]

That's insane....when I get some money to spend I am going to get my board all waterproofed and really start playing. That bottom picture is awesome. :ohcrap: I want my system to look all frosty on top too.

[GFDuke]

I always used RV antifreeze and prestone windshiled washer fluid and a few drops of anti - fungal from the pet shop. It was the -50 windshield stuff i think. i never liked the idea of denatured alcohol in the system.

[ny_driver]

I always used RV antifreeze and prestone windshiled washer fluid and a few drops of anti - fungal from the pet shop. It was the -50 windshield stuff i think. i never liked the idea of denatured alcohol in the system.

Thanks for the alternative solution.

Does it really matter what kind of antifreeze I mix with the washer fluid? Probably cheaper for sure to go with the washer fluid. If I go that route I can afford to get the project under way tonight and be running it tomorrow.

How much more condensation is going to form when the chiller starts pumping -30c coolant? Will I get frost?

[Hondacity]

do you have insulation on your board? i don't see any...

best way to insulate your board is with conformal coating..

[Kal-EL]

-30c, you will definitely get frost :D

[ny_driver]

:ohcrap:I probably shouldn't even try it without properly insulating.....even with it upside down.

EDIT: Don't the cpu pins form condensation/frost right in the socket and short themselves out?

[Kal-EL]

If you're not worried about rma'ng your board, you could pick up some paint on or spray on electric tape spray and go to town with it like this:

http://www.x-cade.com/uploads/Supes/Superman/790iFTW/790iftwmcpblock%20(Large).jpg


Just tape over any pcie,mem, power slots prior to spraying the stuff on ;)

[ny_driver]

Already RMA'd once, so I don't know.

Why doesn't the frost form in the cpu/pcie sockets, or do we do something else for that?

[Kal-EL]

Frost and or Condensation is the enemy. If the cpu socket cold is low enough, it'll migrate outwards towrads the dimms and could cause condensation to form on the pins in there. It all depends on ambient temps, humidity and cold migration.

For the most part, in your chiller setup, the pcb shouldnt reach outwards to the dimm slot pins so you SHOULD be safe.

Some people put vasoline into the dimm slots for heavy duty cold applications but there have been reports of memory behaving funky/differently/not stable after a while with vasoline in the dimm slots. Same goes for pci-e slots.

Fix, cover up un-used dimms with kneeded rubber eraser to keep air out, seal around populated dimm slot with rubber eraser to keep air out. I don't think this will apply to your chiller scenario at all, I, myself, don't bother with the dimm slots, only the pcb around it under -196c ln2 temps.

You'll see alot of people using kneeded rubber eraser liberally on their boards, don't do that, it just spreads the cold outwards more. You're just concnerned with sealing the outer edge of the cpu socket so no air/moisture gets in there.

Just keep a sharp eye on condensation/frost and adjust as necessary and you should be fine and dandy. Everyone's experience is unique to their climate/humidity levels.

[GFDuke]

Thanks for the alternative solution.

Does it really matter what kind of antifreeze I mix with the washer fluid? Probably cheaper for sure to go with the washer fluid. If I go that route I can afford to get the project under way tonight and be running it tomorrow.

How much more condensation is going to form when the chiller starts pumping -30c coolant? Will I get frost?

Definately. Insulation is mandatory in my book!! Kals explanation is right on.

[ny_driver]

So I really just need to do the area around the cpu socket on both sides of the board unless going LN2 then. I'm concerned with my gpus getting all frosty as they are in the loop too. I'll probably have to insulate both sides of them huh?

Wow I am tempted to go back to air on them....the reference coolers work really well, but I have 3 with full cover blocks and it would be a sweet frosty mess when the other gets back from RMA.

Having them in there before the cpu will probably prevent me from reaching the coldest possible cpu temp huh.....maybe only a couple degrees off I hope. I wonder how much higher I will be able to clock my cpu @ -20c?

[Kal-EL]

Look for a drop of anywhere between 10-12c with two gpus, chipset and cpu on the chiller loop. You're performance will scale with the cold on everything. I'd start off with just the cpu and see just how much condensation you're dealing with first and expand from there.

[ny_driver]

I don't have a chipset block yet, I guess I better put that on my list. I don't really care about getting any more performance out of the gpus, but with 3 in there with air coolers the top 2 won't be getting very much air.....I may have to keep them on a water loop separately.

I won't stand for a loss of 10c on my cpu. :eek:

So will -30 get me a few hundred MHz (stable) on the cpu or no? I would love to be able to run this chip @ 4.5GHz(322x14) when I race. It would just somehow be better. I had it stable @ 4242MHz, but 1.6+v seemed like too much even with load temps in the low 40s.

[spfoam1]

Already RMA'd once, so I don't know.

Why doesn't the frost form in the cpu/pcie sockets, or do we do something else for that?

Since your cpu is producing heat you probably wont get condensation or frost inside the cpu socket while it is running (with chilled water). Watch out if you are in a humid place or if you get colder. If you run the loop with the PC off you can get frost inside the cpu socket. With colder temps and you want to fill the cpu socket with dielectric grease. Use a low viscocity dielectric grease or you can bend pins seating the cpu. I learned that the hard way. Crazy PC has a low viscocity dielectric grease. The dielectric grease from NAPA auto is pretty viscous, so if you use that you need to heat it up with a heat gun before you try to seat the cpu. I gobbed dielectric grease all around the cpu socket and then covered that with carefully cut neoprene. Messy but effective. The grease comes off way easier than conformal coating.

[ny_driver]

Definately. Insulation is mandatory in my book!! Kals explanation is right on.

Good pics GFDuke, that helps me visualize my build better.


Since your cpu is producing heat you probably wont get condensation or frost inside the cpu socket while it is running (with chilled water). Watch out if you are in a humid place or if you get colder. If you run the loop with the PC off you can get frost inside the cpu socket. With colder temps and you want to fill the cpu socket with dielectric grease. Use a low viscocity dielectric grease or you can bend pins seating the cpu. I learned that the hard way. Crazy PC has a low viscocity dielectric grease. The dielectric grease from NAPA auto is pretty viscous, so if you use that you need to heat it up with a heat gun before you try to seat the cpu. I gobbed dielectric grease all around the cpu socket and then covered that with carefully cut neoprene. Messy but effective. The grease comes off way easier than conformal coating.

Must be a bitch fixing bent pins with grease all over. Thanks for the advice dude!

[Kal-EL]

I don't have a chipset block yet, I guess I better put that on my list. I don't really care about getting any more performance out of the gpus, but with 3 in there with air coolers the top 2 won't be getting very much air.....I may have to keep them on a water loop separately.

I won't stand for a loss of 10c on my cpu. :eek:

So will -30 get me a few hundred MHz (stable) on the cpu or no? I would love to be able to run this chip @ 4.5GHz(322x14) when I race. It would just somehow be better. I had it stable @ 4242MHz, but 1.6+v seemed like too much even with load temps in the low 40s.
AMD chip right?
I'm not big on AMD experience and cold, Rich aka Neuromancer could answer those Q's as he's been down the ln2 road with them fairly recently.

[ny_driver]

Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFsfICwg_bg) of some guys taking a phenom II to 6.5GHz with liquid nitrogen, and then helium to absolute zero. No cold bug.

[ny_driver]

Man, I'm sitting here staring at this beautiful picture, and wondering about the frost all over the graphics cards. Are they coated with nail polish or something?

And just fucking wow.:thumbsup:

[Hondacity]

yeah it looks nice :D

bad psu though LOL

[Kal-EL]

Man, I'm sitting here staring at this beautiful picture, and wondering about the frost all over the graphics cards. Are they coated with nail polish or something?

And just fucking wow.:thumbsup:

Hehe, sadly "no", I ran it like that for a total of 3 sessions all frosted up and finally it bit the dust. It was my early trips into sub-zero land and some asshat with alot of experience posted that they didn't use any coating whatsoever on their ln2'd gpu's. SO I lost (2) 9800gx2's that way.

You won't get that kinda bullshit advice around here bud :thumbsup:

[Kal-EL]

yeah it looks nice :D

bad psu though LOL

:laughing:

[Neuromancer]

I don't have a chipset block yet, I guess I better put that on my list. I don't really care about getting any more performance out of the gpus, but with 3 in there with air coolers the top 2 won't be getting very much air.....I may have to keep them on a water loop separately.

I won't stand for a loss of 10c on my cpu. :eek:

So will -30 get me a few hundred MHz (stable) on the cpu or no? I would love to be able to run this chip @ 4.5GHz(322x14) when I race. It would just somehow be better. I had it stable @ 4242MHz, but 1.6+v seemed like too much even with load temps in the low 40s.

Low 40s is fine for load.

Of course with a chiller running... if anything happened that could quickly turn into 60-70C real fast..

I am surprised the CHIV can handle 322 HTREF my exerience with asus baords has not been very good at all for bus clocking. I so gotta sell my chIII now :)

Think you could drop the multi and see how far you can push the HTREF??? and which BIOS you are using :) por favor

[ny_driver]

Hehe, sadly "no", I ran it like that for a total of 3 sessions all frosted up and finally it bit the dust. It was my early trips into sub-zero land and some asshat with alot of experience posted that they didn't use any coating whatsoever on their ln2'd gpu's. SO I lost (2) 9800gx2's that way.

You won't get that kinda bullshit advice around here bud :thumbsup:

Good to hear.

Low 40s is fine for load.

Of course with a chiller running... if anything happened that could quickly turn into 60-70C real fast..

I am surprised the CHIV can handle 322 HTREF my exerience with asus baords has not been very good at all for bus clocking. I so gotta sell my chIII now :)

Think you could drop the multi and see how far you can push the HTREF??? and which BIOS you are using :) por favor

40s load was just blowing the a/c directly on the rad. No chiller yet.

I'm not 100% sure 320FSB is stable on the board, but another person said he ran 347FSB on the board. I was running 320x12.5 for a couple weeks with 3200MHz NB/2240HT, and 1707 DDR3. I didn't try prime on it at that setting, but it never crashed. The highest I got it to post was like 334 IIRC. One stick of memory died during mobo swapping and since then my 320x12.5 etc...seemed unstable. Waiting on RMA.

I could try to see how high the FSB will go again. Right now I'm @ 308x13 w/3080 NB-2156 HT, and 1642 DDR3 which works very good....it's prime stable for an hour anyways, which considering I had it stable @ 4242MHz before is stable enough for me for now.

lol....the BIOS(0905 btw) allows you to set the FSB up to 600 :eek: ....why?

So with -20 or 30c should that give me headroom to overclock higher or will I need to venture into much colder territory?

[ny_driver]

Sorry I must double post to keep the log going. :)

I have the a/c all apart and the evap in a cooler, as you can see from the pictures, for a test run. I managed to not screw anything up and I only had to bend the pipe a little bit.

Does anyone see any problems so far?

Everything seems to be working good until the compressor shuts off which happens to be when the coolant temperature gets to 0c and it's taking forever to come back on.

When I short the 2 wires to the thermostat I get a readout on the screen that indicates a sensor has gone bad, but the compressor does not stay on. It acts as if there is a thermostat attached to it but there is not.

Right now I have the thermostat attached and taped to the side of the compressor to stay warm, but that doesn't work either.

What is this tube sensor thing? It is attached and it is submerged in the tank....do I leave that alone?

I may have to figure out how to just straight hot-wire it or something. Fortunately I haven't cut the shaft off yet, just in case I can't get it working. We'll get it figured out though.:thumbsup:

Ohh I almost forgot...... Think you could drop the multi and see how far you can push the HTREF??? and which BIOS you are using :) por favor

Tested today 340x10 would not post, 335x10 I got a BSOD, and 330x10 passed 5 runs of IBT maximum stress level.

[ny_driver]

I got it figured out!!!:ohcrap:I posted again.


It was that tube sensor thing.....I just removed it from where it was attached to the tube 6" deep in the reservoir. Now it's hanging out where it's warm along with the thermostat. Finally sub-zero!!!! More frosty pics coming right up..........:)

0 Fahrenheit/-16c in this one. -20c right now though:clapping:COLDER COLDER!!!

EDIT: ohh look at the frost in this one. Simply amazing. UPDATE: been hanging right @ -22c for seems like a couple minutes now............ahhh -23c now.:blink:

UPDATE: -27c

................and check this out too. http://hwbot.org/community/submission/1039718_ny_driver_cpu_z_phenom_ii_x6_1055t_4424.16 _mhz?new=true

I wanted to join the OCAlliance team, but didn't have the password. Can I join?:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbdown: :thumbsup: :thumbdown: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:....9-2 I'm in.:D

UPDATE: -30c after 3 hours. Is the res too big or is that normal? Evap is not completely submerged either if that makes a difference.

It's currently 3 gallons -25F washer fluid, and almost 2 gallons Prestone anti-freeze & distilled water. The mix didn't slush up at all. I have another gallon washer fluid, but I didn't want to put it in because how the fuck am I going to move this thing? Actually 2 people can probably do it pretty easy, just across the room fortunately.

Anyways, it's been a good night. I can't wait to get my board insulated and unleash this beast on my cpu for awhile. :cool3:

[Neuromancer]

Suhweet!!! That looks like a ton of fun :)

Looks like the CHIV wont be enough for the 1055T for e though :( Was really hoping it would push it over 350 at least. (380 + turbo puts it up to 5600MHZ?? I think)

Going to have to look around a little more.

[rickss69]

Good show ny! - I'm pulling for you... :thumbsup:

[Kal-EL]

I thought you had it shorted this whole time, the tube thingy is the temp probe that we usually short to keep the compressor on. :Dizzy:

Glad you got it sorted homie :D

[Hondacity]

subzero+!

[ny_driver]

I was messing with the room sensor, although I was wondering about the tube sensor when it kept shutting off.:Dizzy:

Tube sensor is @ room temp and the room sensor is taped to the compressor for warmth.

The coolant temp only rose to -15c after sitting there in the cooler for 7-8 hours with the lid ajar. Amazing I say! I'm now running it to see how quickly it gets back down to COLD:)

[Witchdoctor]

Nice work man ..........:thumbsup:

Looks like you are having a ball ..........

[ny_driver]

Check it out....I'm on the team (http://hwbot.org/community/submission/1039866_ny_driver_cpu_z_phenom_ii_x6_1055t_4424.16 _mhz?new=true)

This thing doesn't cool down quite as fast as I was hoping, but it stays cold.

[Kal-EL]

Check it out....I'm on the team (http://hwbot.org/community/submission/1039866_ny_driver_cpu_z_phenom_ii_x6_1055t_4424.16 _mhz?new=true)

This thing doesn't cool down quite as fast as I was hoping, but it stays cold.

:welcome: to the Team buddy, hunker down and get to know your peeps.


Pull down on these chillers can take up to an hour and a half in my experience before you reach the best temps possible. :scared:

[ny_driver]

Thanks Kal-El and OCA for allowing me to join the team so soon. :Hi:

-32c after ~an hour...not too shabby eh?

[FACE]

Welcome to the team buddy.... can you smell the hardware we're cooking?

:ohcrap:

[ny_driver]

Thanks again. And yes I can.

So I managed to get the chiller tidied up a bit today....got everything level and the evap lines installed. Just need to cut to size some of my support blocks and screw them down....and that's about it. I'm going to be drilling 2 holes in the lid later(where the grommets are) to add my feed and return hoses. I think 1 on each side of the evap will work well, with the return pouring down the side for better dissipation, and the feed at the bottom with a strainer/filter from a Wagner paint gun on it. :cool3:

Probably insulate the board next weekend somehow. Here is a couple more pics....sorry the one is so blurry, must be I moved, but you can still see.
Do you realize the exposed part of the evap still had snow all over it when I got up this morning...and the lid was ajar. Pretty good cooler I guess.

I wonder how fast it would get beer cold. I'll have to try a cold activated Coors light can in there sometime.

EDIT: I had to add 1 more because I got it looking a little better yet. :) Nice and quiet like a good air conditioner with those bricks on top..........I just cannot believe how long that coolant stays cold?

[Neuromancer]

w00t!!!!

Welcome to the team man!!

[Kal-EL]

Oh yah, the coolant stays cold like a mofo in there. I had to wait 2 days once because the frost around the evap was so thick. Once you have enough fluid in the reservoir, recirculating a loop thru it helps thaw out faster.

I'm guessing your anit-freeze mix wasn't strong enough and froze up?

Also, make sure your feed line tube/copper/whatever reaches down to the bottom of the reservoir to pick up the coldest coolant and that your return flows over the fins of the evap if at all possible.

[ny_driver]

The only thing that froze up was the frost that fell in the coolant. -25F windshield washer fluid seems to work well. I'll change it up if it becomes necessary.

[ny_driver]

Ohh I must add another picture as I dream about how cold the old 1055T is going to be. I rearranged and made a nice home for the chiller right next to my rig.

Now there is no need for my res anymore correct? Just go chiller>cpu>pump>chiller now? :thumbsup: It's gonna be a nice short loop if so.

[Hondacity]

as long as the pump is sucking fluid you'd be ok...and alcohol will crack that swiftechy reservoir

[Kal-EL]

Yah, theres not need for a res cuz you got a big fatty res right there, just get the coolant flowing thru the pump and you'll be o.k.. What pump?

[ny_driver]

Swiftech MCP655-B....please tell me it will withstand the temperatures, and the washer fluid. :blink:

[Hondacity]

some guys with chilled water had that pump runnin @ -30c

you'll be fine :D

[Kal-EL]

flow rate goes to crap on the swiftech under sub-zero but see what you can get bro ;)

[ny_driver]

Thanks Hondacity.

But what would be a better pump to get for sub-zero? I could just use the Swifty for the gpus.

I'd like to figure out how to chill that radiator for the gpus just a little so I don't get any frost or wetness, but gpus stay nice and cool.

How about this..........cut a hole in the top of my chiller lid to mount my radiator in, 1 fan blowing in and 1 blowing out. EDIT: I could have them both blowing out if I made some air vents around the lid. Then it would maybe get a little colder than it got on the front of the a/c.....ya think? And the compressor would probably run a little bit more;)

How much of an effect would that have on my cpu temperatures? Pretty much none I bet.

What do you think of my plan? :thumbsup: or :thumbdown:

[Neuromancer]

Air circulation works in two ways...

When the air is colder than XXX it cools XXX if the air is warmer than XXX it warms XXX

If you go second loop... I would just put the rad in the bath TBH... if you place your I/O right like Kal suggested earlier you will get enough medium moving through the fins...

But I am just guessing...never done it myself.


TBH.. it seems like GPUs benefit less from cold than CPUs... at least from what I see on the bot... there are of course exceptions either way.. but ... I would say wait for winter Imean submerge now... but if its too much load for serious Ocing... wait for winter..... get some fan extension cables.. throw your GPU rad out the window :) I kept a pretty decent 0c on my AMD setup with just a 480GTX sitting outside...(and 4 ultra kaze 3Ks pumping air through it ;) )

Unfortunately the VRMS were not getting cold enough so I was still limited.

[Kal-EL]

I would get a DIce pot for the cpu and use the chiller for the gpu/blocks and clock to holy hell!

[Hondacity]

you need to insulate first bro...

anyways regarding the pump...i just researched pumps cold water...best way to fight cavitation because of slush...

dual pumps is the answer...

hope that helps..

[ny_driver]

I had already planned on trying it outside when it gets colder.

I considered submerging the rad, but I figured it would get colder than I want. I just want it colder than it would be on regular unchilled water. And I don't want to interfere with the cpu temperature if possible.

I think my idea would work for what I want it to. I don't want to mess with insulating the cards from frost.....yet.

EDIT: I could do that too, but I can't use DICE all the time. So it'd be a pain in the ass.

[Kal-EL]

A chiller cpu block is needed in this hobby. Wonder if Buckeye is up to the task?

[Patch]

Welcome to the team!

I never did a chiller so I don't have much to add. It sure makes for fun pics and it looks like you're having a blast in your subzero excursions.

[Neuromancer]

My chiller experience was tossing the rad outside in 10 degree F weather lol.

Never got frost.. but my house is not insulated well.. Only hit 0C on the software probes.

Personally... I would freeze the CPU and get what you can out of the GPU. only cause of hwbot. GPU just don't scale like CPU under cold. Problem is no one cools the whole card... you can expect the rubber whatever to eventually cool it all but it aint like a full cover heatsink or something...

VRMS get hot still... (VRMs on my 4890 totally limit the clocking ability) I am not a GPU ln2 colling guru though.

(You take that mass versus responsive ness argument and apply it to rubber .. yes rubber cools the whole card but it aint really KEEPing it cool... )

[ny_driver]

I do have 3 x EK FC-4890 full cover blocks. VRMs should get nice and cool with those if I did go that route. You're absolutely right about the VRMs getting the hottest.

I'm just going to go with air for now I think. It'll be fun to listen to the power of all 3 of those fans going........get drowned out by the sound of the compressor :) In the meantime I can look for a DICE pot, and get everything nicely insulated.

------------------------------------------------
EDIT: I ordered the Dragon Skin (http://www.smooth-on.com/Dragon-Skin%3D-FX-/c1339/index.html?catdepth=1)

Hopefully it will get here by Friday when I get home from work....it's only coming from Pennsylvania I think.......at least that's where the address on the website is and my money went.

EDIT: I also plan to do something very close to this (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=256704) when I get home from work (hopefully Thursday night).

[Kal-EL]

Sounds like a masterful plan :D

[ny_driver]

Well I received the Lizard Skin in the mail and I think tomorrow I will apply it, insulate the block, and set up the new loop.

Stay tuned for more pictures. :thumbsup:

[Kal-EL]

Right on, popcorn! :)

[ny_driver]

Very important questions before I actually go ahead and hook up the chiller today.

I know I asked about this before, but what about the actual cpu socket? What do I do to protect the pins from getting frost? I just read that dielectric grease will melt silicone rubber over time.

When covering the back of the board, can I do the entire socket area or the whole board if I want?

Thanks again Overclockaholics. :Dizzy:

[DrNip]

Rule of thumb for me if it is going to be a daily sub-zero setup (24/7) then grease the socket. If not then don't.

[ny_driver]

There will be lots of times I do not even turn on the chiller (EDIT:...probably NOT), as cold as the res gets.:thumbsup:

I usually use the computer Fri, Sat, Sun and am away at work the rest of the time, Sometimes however, I have weeks off and the computer gets used everyday.

Better safe than sorry I guess. How fast do you think the grease will eat the Dragon Skin, and does that really even matter?

EDIT: grease is pretty permanent right? No way to get it out of the socket?

[DrNip]

You will need grease if you don't plan on unhooking the unit on a daily bases to air out is what I am saying. Even if you only plan on using it a few days a week. It isn't permanent but a bitch to get all out. Be careful not to damage your pins.

[FACE]

If you have to rma the board you can wash it out... otherwise nope.. :ohcrap:

[ny_driver]

I guess I better grease it. How much of the board do I need to cover when just chilling the cpu?

[Kal-EL]

Youre gonna skin the outer area of the cpu socket, front and back of the board. If you use grease in the socket, remember what spfoam said, not too much if its vicous because you dont' wanna bend the pins when clamping down the cpu fastener. You should only need to grease the socket and not the rest of the board since you have the skin to spread around the socket.

If you have closed cell foam, i'd cut out the square of the cpu h/s in a layer of paper towel and then cut out the shape of your waterblock base and lay that over the paper towel.

[Kal-EL]

Whatever method you choose, papertowel or foam, mount your block, bolt it down and then remove, check contact of the block and TIM spread to make sure the papertowel or foam isn't preventing good contact with the processor h/s

[ny_driver]

I can't imagine bending the pins once the cpu is seated in the socket. Thanks for the advice.

[ny_driver]

Now I'm wondering how I will prime the pump with no res to fill right before it. I don't want the pump before the cpu. I'll probably keep that little res right before the pump. What do you think of that idea?

[Kal-EL]

Hehe, yap, priming in this configuration takes some creativity. Submerging the pump in the bath is the easiest route. But if you can't/don't have a submersible, you can backfill the line and clamp it.

So, if you're config goes: Chiller bath >>>>>>>> pump >>>>>>>>>>> cpu
then you remove the intake from teh block and backfill the line all the way to the Chiller bath using a funnel. Then you take a clamp and pinch off the line. Attach intake back onto block, turn on pump and un-clamp tube at the same time to get the coolant running thru the loop till its all good.

[ny_driver]

OK maybe try the latter. I don't think the pump is submersible.

So this morning I look at the board which I Dragon-Skinned last night, and I see a couple small air pockets on the back-side of the board. Do I need to re-skin the back?

[FACE]

If they are close to the socket yeah, but if not I wouldn't worry about it....

[ny_driver]

Thanks for the quick reply FACE!

I didn't cover the entire board. I did about an 8-10" square on the back, and on the front I went from the top to the NB and the mosfets to the DIMMS. Does that sound like enough coverage for just chilling the cpu?

I'll probably redo the back and wipe it clean with alcohol first. I think I forgot to clean the back last night. OOps.

EDIT: and the plan was to go chiller bath>cpu>pump>chiller bath.....you think it's ok to put the pump before the cpu because that would make things easier, but I think I'd lose/gain a couple degrees going through the pump on the way to the cpu. And it seems like it would flow better if it was just pouring out from the chiller directly to the cpu.

[rickss69]

I would not redo the back ny - it will be just fine.

[ny_driver]

Already peeled it. It was a touch greasy underneath where the air pockets were.

Should I put some dielectric grease around the NB also?...It worries me a little being right next to the edge of the Dragon Skin.

Right now I am making a hold-down plate for my block insulation. Plywood will work fine.:thumbsup:

[ny_driver]

I'm now very frustrated. I cannot get a configuration where I can get all the air out and get it primed. The problem is that my hoses are through the top of my chiller so air gets trapped almost to the end of the return hose.

I tried adding the reservoir right where the air gets trapped, but because it's not a closed loop the res continues to drain out. I know the pump is strong enough to go twice as far as it is.

I have the pump on top of the chiller in the feed line and that seems to work well, but not quite well enough. I'm so irritated with this right now. I started with the pump in the return line, but ended up with air trapped in the line between the cpu and the pump and the end of the return hose.

WTF shall I do next?:blink:

[ny_driver]

I got a more powerful pump.:ohcrap:
Maybe tomorrow I'll get to try chilling the cpu. After finally getting the loop flowing nicely with the new(old as dirt) pump, I discovered that the hose clamps on the waterblock weren't quite tight enough. I had been so focused on getting it flowing that I for one didn't tighten the clamps enough, and for two didn't notice the water sneaking it's way everywhere.

OK back in time now for the events leading up to what I just told you. :blush:

I got the hoses all insulated and everything is coming together now. Time to throw the memory and video card in there and plug everything in.

Well here goes...........I flick the switch.........and the lights come on and then BANG!!! from the PSU and I guess a spark too. I'm like WTF???, I figure I dripped in the PSU, but nothing shuts off and the lights on the mobo are telling me something is wrong with GPU. So I shut down and put it in a different slot , and reset the CMOS for kicks and it boots up, I went into the BIOS and checked all the voltages and they looked fine, so then on to windows. While it is loading windows I decide to look closer at the board and I see some water....and I'm like F$#@$@#!!!!!!.....so I shut 'er down and took everything apart, only to find water everywhere I didn't put Dragon Skin.....lol........under the pci-e slots, DIMMS, etc...etc......

I'm going to dry it out until morning with my Vantec Tornado....that little fan is insane. Hopefully the card works in that 1st slot tomorrow when everything is dry. I'd hate to have to RMA this board again.

Boy am I tired....I worked on this thing for a good 12 hours today.....you'd think I'd have it up and running by now. :Dizzy: Too much like WORK:eek:

[FACE]

wow, 12hrs?! way to grind, buddy. :thumbsup:

it's always the little things we miss that bite us. Hopefully the board dries out and everything goes back to normal. :blink:

[Hondacity]

yeah been workin on my superpi runs the whole day too...

borrow your mom's hair dryer it'll be faster...or just put in the over...with some wax paper so you won't short anything

[FACE]

yeah been workin on my superpi runs the whole day too...

borrow your mom's hair dryer it'll be faster...or just put in the over...with some wax paper so you won't short anything

meh, if the battery is out, you won't short anything. Walmart carries Wagner heat guns in the paint section for $25 for quick-dry win action.

[Hondacity]

heatguns i think can go as hot as 300C...

[FACE]

heatguns i think can go as hot as 300C...

:thumbsup: Feelin' hot hot hot :splits:

[Kal-EL]

Dont forget the clothes dryer. If the dryer came with a shoe rack (keeps shoes from tumbling in the dryer) just place your motherboard on the tray and run on medium to low heat for an hour or so, check temps every so often.

[ny_driver]

Actually more like 15 hours. :blink:

Great ideas guys, but I just used that insane little fan and time...it blows the water out from under the slots so I could mop it up. All dry today and working fine....WHEW!!!!!!

Anyways to help prevent future water seepage I elevated the front/bottom end of my rig so water will run right off the back end instead of down into the middle of the board if it leaks again......or if the frost starts to melt and run.:thumbsup:

I'm getting ready to shut down and turn the chiller on for an hour or so while I take a shower and stuff. Too bad I have no thermometer telling me how cold the surface of the chip/IHS is getting, but I'll get one this week sometime.

:ohcrap:I suppose you guys will want some pictures. I better get back to work. :eek:

[Kal-EL]

uh yah :P

feed the pic monster! :picmonster:```````"FEED ME!"

[ny_driver]

ok here is 1 for now..... Time to shut 'er down and fire up the chiller.

I'll be BACH:keeporder:

[ny_driver]

How inaccurate are the software temp sensors? My cpu won't go below 5c, but the chiller bath is -30c and holding steady or maybe still dropping. More pics very soon. :cool3:

[ny_driver]

:ohcrap:4.5GHz (http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1358833) seems to run good, haven't tested at all yet.

[Hondacity]

software temps are just feedbacks from the cpu...the old intels haev good sensors..not sure about the amd stuff ...

[Kal-EL]

Glad you got it workin bro :) , did you mount and unmount to check the spread/contact of the thermal paste?

[ny_driver]

Sure did. :thumbsup: Thanks I'm very happy now. i think I will go down and get 2 gallons Antifreeze and replace 2 gallons of the washer fluid, because it's only rated for about -25F/-32c. It seemed to stop getting colder and start warming a couple degrees when the coolant got ~5c below it's rated temperature. May have been geling up slightly.

Tell me something...if the chiller is @ -30c, what would the digital probe I intend to put on the chip say approximately? Software says the chip hasn't gone below 5c...do you believe that could be true?

[Kal-EL]

Sure did. :thumbsup: Thanks I'm very happy now. i think I will go down and get 2 gallons Antifreeze and replace 2 gallons of the washer fluid, because it's only rated for about -25F/-32c. It seemed to stop getting colder and start warming a couple degrees when the coolant got ~5c below it's rated temperature. May have been geling up slightly.

Tell me something...if the chiller is @ -30c, what would the digital probe I intend to put on the chip say approximately? Software says the chip hasn't gone below 5c...do you believe that could be true?

Well, thats why I asked about the mount, wanted to make sure you had all the cold on the IHS.

-30c at stock speeds/voltage on a QX9650 was in teh neighborhood of -15c if I recall correctly. The efficiency on this type of chiller setup isn't at all nearly as good as strapping a pot onto the processor, but its sure fun.

You can look to improvements in efficiency between the bath temp and the cpu temp by making sure the entire line of tubing is well insulated. If you've already taken care of that, don't expect too much more in gains.

Running a chiller on gpu blocks usually lets you see gpu clocks screeeeeem in comparison to cpu overclocks. Its a bitch to insualte tho :P

[ny_driver]

I'm using Ceramique and I'm sure it's on there tight.

I better get a digital thermometer and see for myself.

I'm hoping it's actually below zero........hey is it safe to crank it to 1.7v now?

[ReverendMaynard]

I'm using Ceramique and I'm sure it's on there tight.

I better get a digital thermometer and see for myself.

I'm hoping it's actually below zero........hey is it safe to crank it to 1.7v now?


a decent k-type thermo is a handy tool in the subzero game...great investment.

1.7v would be safe if you could confirm a subzero temp at the IHS level, until then I'd stay patient unless you can replace the cpu out of pocket ;)

I think Kal mentioned a great suggestion earlier. Using this chiller for GPU's and a DICE/LN2 pot for the cpu would be seriously epic. Either way, thanks for sharing this with us.

[ny_driver]

Yeah probably someday I will do that too. Thanks for the advice.

More problems.........sitting there @ 4GHz typing and the system froze up and would not reboot. The light on the mobo says cpu is not initializing because it never gets past that light which is the first to light up.

I removed and inspected everything to find the paper towel gasket slightly moist, but nothing else wet at all. I thought maybe "cold-bug" but after warming up and reinstalling the block(which I did not turn on), I get the same result. I reset cmos, removed battery and unplugged for awhile.

Seems that my cpu just quit. :blink:

I may look for a cheap 555BE or something to see if it's actually the cpu. Anyone got an AM3 cpu for sale?

[Kal-EL]

Might be condesation issues. I'd dry it out and test the chip again.

[ny_driver]

I greased the socket with dielectric grease. I thought that was to make it so I didn't have condensation issues with the cpu.

If I pop the cpu out it will be greasy and so will the socket....I am not seeing how anything will dry out.

I'll try doing that, but I think I'm in the market for a cheap 555 or 720BE unfortunately.

Maybe running it at 4.5Ghz with 1.6v earlier killed it? Couldn't be. One time I set it to 1.63v long enough to get a validation awhile ago, but it lived through that.

[ReverendMaynard]

dielectric grease...why? lol

clean it up, dry it out and hope she comes back to life which I'm sure it will.

[ny_driver]

:ohcrap:What do you mean why....and how do I clean it out?

[ny_driver]

Wow...I found out how to clean it out, but is that really the issue here? Don't people use the stuff all the time for that?

[ny_driver]

Here is what the socket looks like.......I guess I'll clean it out with WD-40, some rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. The pins weren't even all that greasy it seemed, but I filled the socket and spread it in all the holes. I'll have to re-skin it too I suppose.

Should I just try sealing up the socket and leave out the grease? It's not that hard to remove the block/cpu and air out the socket daily.

How am I supposed to seal up the socket that must move to latch the cpu in place?:blink:EDIT: electrical tape?

[ny_driver]

Well....cleaning the cpu was easy obviously, but with limited supplies on hand here is what I did.

I tipped the board so the alcohol would run right off the end and scrubbed the socket with a toothbrush. Then to get the grease out I used, of all things, my mouth to blow compressed air through the socket and I repeated the procedure several times.

Now in the picture I am blow drying the socket with the Vantec Tornado.

Until the next episode...............

[ny_driver]

Cleaning and drying did not help, using just rubbing alcohol, a toothbrush and blowing the stuff out of the socket with my mouth. I went and bought QD electronics cleaner and a can of spray air. If it won't work after this cleaning I am buying a 965BE from the egg and try to RMA this 1055T. I'm sick of the stupid locked multiplier anyways. And if it's not the chip I guess it must be the board :Dizzy: What a mess.

[Kal-EL]

Bummerz bro, casualty of war. Good luck on the next chip ;)

[ny_driver]

I cleaned the socket really good now with QD cleaner and dried it out with a hair-dryer and the Vantec....the spray air was a waste of money.

I think the 1055T is deceased for some reason. What I mean is why did it just quit working even if some undetected moisture got in the socket it was greased.

Maybe it was a bad chip? In order for me to overclock the NB to 3GHz I had to pump 1.48-1.5v through the cpu/NB. Everyone else I've talked to says that is way higher than what they need.

The most I ever gave the vcore was 1.63v and only long enough for a validation, although it was by no means hot. And since hooking up the chiller I ran the chip @ 4.5GHz/1.6v for a couple hours. I tried playing GRID and it crashed. So I backed off to the regular 4GHz/1.46v, and the system froze up after awhile while I was typing a reply here.

Who knows? I just ordered a Phenom II x4 965BE 3.4GHz C3/125w from the egg. That's a better chip anyways. I sure as hell don't need 6 cores. It's just a waste of energy and extra heat. If I only knew then what I know now I would have bought one of these in the first place.

Shit happens...but what's the deal with the grease? I've gotten mixed answers here. :blink: Is it best/safest to just unseat the chiller every day and make sure everything gets dry? Better solution than grease?

Is it a regular thing for condensation to form on the cpu pins/socket and short out peoples cpus? Can I only use the chiller for a couple hours at a time? Maybe I didn't do enough research.

EDIT: at least I have the 4.5GHz cpu-z validation and screen shot for HWBOT:shock: to remember it by.

[Kal-EL]

IIRC one of the guys was saying the other day that those chips die pretty easily.

[ny_driver]

Hmm......when you say those chips do you mean the Thubans or AMDs? I sure hope the 965 Deneb fares better. Should be easier to OC with the unlocked multiplier!

[ny_driver]

Out of boredom I decided to post up some closer-up pictures of my block insulation setup for anyone that is interested.

As you can see from the pictures there are 3 layers of insulation that go on top of the paper towel gasket....2 under the block and 1 over it then the plywood hold down plate. It seems to be pretty good...the only place I saw frost was on the pump.

The first layer only allows the cpu socket to see through, the second only allows the face of the block....I think I'll redo that layer so only a cpu sized section is uncovered....and the third layer obviously only allows the hoses through. I had to either cut that one in half or make the hole bigger. I chose to cut it.

The last picture is my system sitting there with a dead cpu in it.

I hope you enjoy.

[Hondacity]

yikes....i don't think that thing will insulate..

that pump looks great...how much is that?

[ny_driver]

yikes....i don't think that thing will insulate..

that pump looks great...how much is that?

That insulation worked very well. What exactly do you mean?

The pump was free...my uncle had it stashed away somewhere. It came off a veterinarian trailer. Pumps ~ 1 gallon a minute.

[Kal-EL]

I love the time and effort you've put into this chiller bro, your drive and determination are both commendable and admirable. You sir, "Foster the FEVER!" :D

[rickss69]

ny - Me thinks that the Thubans just can't take the constant pressure like Intel's.

I never use grease in my sockets and have never had an issue. You might seal the edges of the chip with a little eraser is all I can think of atm.

AMD will rma that chip...they did for me with no hassle. :good:

[ny_driver]

Thanks Kal, I definitely do. In the past 6 months I have graduated from air to water to chiller, and finally a few months ago sold off the 939 rigs except 1(Neo2Plat/Opty170/2GBOCZPlat/x850pro), and built this.

Sorry for my ignorance Rick, but what do you mean constant pressure? And do you mean put eraser all around the surface of the chip and the socket? Once I got the chip seated I put more Dragon Skin around the edges of the chip and socket to seal it up better, but it doesn't really stick to the edge of the IHS

[ny_driver]

Ohh I forgot to mention how I stupidly bought a brand new chest freezer to make a radiator cooler, drilled two nice holes in the top for hoses and it didn't work nearly as good as I had hoped except for first thing in the morning for a couple hours...then it's just average water cooled temps.

23 hours after I placed my order with Newegg....my chip is here in my hand. :thumbsup:

965BE
HDZ965FBK4DGM
CACAC AC 1014DPMW


Going to pop it in and see if it comes back to life now.:)

[Neuromancer]

FYI.. you only need 3+ GHz on cpuNB speed if you are running 2000+MHz ram.

Rule is 3 times ram speed (2000 = 1000MHz)

However faster cpuNB can help in 2D tasks the difference is pretty minimal. For benching I increase it (hey if it is an extra couple seconds in 32M I am in :)) but for general overclocking not necessary.

[ny_driver]

Thanks for that information. I have never heard that formula/rule before.

Off to test the 965...if it works I shut down and this afternoon I re-insulate the board and try again with no grease.

[ny_driver]

So it seems the cpu wasn't the problem. Another motherboard, I just RMAd it a month ago. New one should be here Friday.

I'm hooking up the 939 rig tonight as my laptop seems to be ill.

[spfoam1]

This thread sure brings some interesting memories back. My congrats to the addicted one! Amazing build.

[ny_driver]

Thanks a lot bro! Got the new Crosshair IV just now from ASUS advanced RMA/fedex overnight.

Apparently I failed to insulate well enough on the last board or maybe it was a leak, but either way........ I don't want to let this happen again. I think I'll use thin strips of electrical tape to keep the dragon skin from seeping under things.

Don't you guys get condensation forming around the edge of where the cpu is making contact with the HS, and then dripping down into the cpu socket? I'm very concerned about this now, because that seems like the most likely place for water to get where it isn't supposed to.

I need some advice...going to be re-insulating later on after I make sure everything is working.

Thanks!

[FACE]

The trick in both Lga and PGA sockets is to make the cpu area air tight. I do not put grease in or around the socket. Sealing the area around the cpu with eraser works fine by itself. you can insulate up the side of the socket and cpu to the very top edge of teh ihs and not interfere with the cooler (wb/ evap/pot) at all.

so I would try the eraser method until you get the dragon skin method perfected. Make it thin on the mobo, and gradually mound it up around teh socket until you have it up level with the cpu. Make sure it is pressed tight to the sides of the socket and cpu and your worries are over. :thumbsup:

[ny_driver]

Thanks FACE, I'm going to get the kneaded eraser and use that in addition to the dragon skin right around the socket and give it another go.

I'm up and running again with the 965BE now.

I stuck my bad memory module in the freezer for like 2-3 days and it works again too.

I'm ready to party dudes:D!

[rickss69]

A little eraser around the perimeter of the cpu is all you need...not even neccessary to seal it to the Dragon Skin. :thumbsup:


http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00455.jpg


"Sorry for my ignorance Rick, but what do you mean constant pressure? And do you mean put eraser all around the surface of the chip and the socket? Once I got the chip seated I put more Dragon Skin around the edges of the chip and socket to seal it up better, but it doesn't really stick to the edge of the IHS "

What I meant ny was I think the Thuban will degrade quickly after some spectacular benching blasts...maybe not die but never perform as well as it did initially.

[rickss69]

Just read back thru the thread and in post #93 is where you had the massive water leak. I would be very careful about using Dragon Skin like you are around the cpu socket...you think the grease was hard to remove. :ohcrap:

Everywhere else the Dragon Skin is fine except in the dimm/pci sockets of course. You want it to flow under and around everything, just as water would do.

[ny_driver]

Thanks for the picture....it lets me know it doesn't have to be pretty:laughing:EDIT: THanks for the explanation too...I didn't see it down there at first.

I'm gonna overclock the piss out of this 965BE. I got it IBT/max stress stable @ 4GHz/1.428v and not chilling the chiller...max core temp of 39c. It's the 194th chip off the wafer so it should be pretty good I hear. My 1055T is the 247th chip.:thumbsup:

By tonight I'll be chilling it and also have my 2x4890s back on water and my new loop with cool blue washer fluid, which is going to look pretty sweet.

Stop back later for pictures.

[rickss69]

Have you skinned the cards as well?


http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00454.jpg

[ny_driver]

You aren't saying let it flow under the edges of the cpu socket are you? But you do let it run under the DIMMS and PCI-E slots? I'd rather it didn't...I have my board tilted so water can only run off the back and not towards the pci-e slots.

Are you sure it's ok to let it run under the DIMMS?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but I really don't want to fuck this up again. ASUS won't do another advanced replacement.

EDIT: not chilling the cards.

[rickss69]

You aren't saying let it flow under the edges of the cpu socket are you? But you do let it run under the DIMMS and PCI-E slots? I'd rather it didn't...I have my board tilted so water can only run off the back and not towards the pci-e slots.

Are you sure it's ok to let it run under the DIMMS?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but I really don't want to fuck this up again. ASUS won't do another advanced replacement.

EDIT: not chilling the cards.

Yes, let it flow under anything it is able to...that will prevent any moisture from gaining access to those areas. Just don't get it inside the sockets as that would prevent good contact. Dragon Skin will not harm anything as it is non-conductive.

[ny_driver]

EVEN the cpu socket? It's not going to prevent anything from making contact? I need to google some pictures of the inside of a AM3 socket for my own peace of mind.

[rickss69]

EVEN the cpu socket? It's not going to prevent anything from making contact? I need to google some pictures of the inside of a AM3 socket for my own peace of mind.

Not inside the socket where the chip sits ny - around the perimeter of the socket where it meets the motherboard. That is where the water will want to go if it is not covered/protected with skin.


http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00447.jpg

[ny_driver]

Right...I didn't mean in the holes. I just meant could it run too far under the edges around the base and interfere with the pins making contact and really fuck me? Remember the pins are on the chip.

[rickss69]

Right...I didn't mean in the holes. I just meant could it run too far under the edges around the base and interfere with the pins making contact and really fuck me?

No, it will not harm anything there. This is the best I could do...I am no artist. :taunt:

[rickss69]

Same for AM3...


http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/DSC00459.jpg

[ny_driver]

That's about what I did. Here is a picture of the peeled skin.

Any pointers?

[rickss69]

That's about what I did. Here is a picture of the peeled skin.

Any pointers?

Yes - Quit peeling it off...:taunt: (Sorry, I could'nt help myself lol)

[ny_driver]

Yes - Quit peeling it off...:taunt: (Sorry, I could'nt help myself lol)

I'm certainly hoping to.:thumbsup:

[FACE]

That peeled skin picture is pretty cool looking. Everyone should throw pics of their peeled skins and put together a gallery thread. FTW!

[ny_driver]

My new skin is pretty thick. That's not going to hurt anything is it?

The chiller is chilling now, all I have left to do is apply the kneaded eraser, mount the water block, and throw the switch.

I'm so happy that everything is going good. I'm much more comfortable with my application of Dragon Skin this time. I skinned it right up to the surface of the cpu so no air already, but I'll put a ring of eraser around it anyways.

About to eat a pizza and then I'll be back with live updates.:)

[ny_driver]

OK....so far so good. No leaks, no moisture. Still no thermometer on the chip though.:blush:

Software says 7c right now, and has been as low as 4c. I think I may be getting near the gelling point of the coolant because it went up 2-3 degrees....after I ran through 3dmark06 @ 4.5GHz/1.55v:cool3:..............the 1055t wouldn't do that @ 1.6v. I just guessed that 1.55v might do it. I'm sure things will change.

I went from 3.4GHz to 4GHz to 4.5GHz...lol...I wonder if it will run IBT or anything really stressful. I'll keep you posted and get some pics up in just a few minutes.

Thanks a lot guys!! I am really happy with the results of the 2nd attempt.

This cold shit rules. No way could I run this chip @ 4.5Ghz before the chiller. :thumbsup:

Pics added: The front(never took out the memory), the back, the eraser I removed because it was too thick, didn't stick to anything, and didn't seem to be doing anything to help matters, and the whole system in poor lighting. I'll get some better daylight pics tomorrow.

[Splave]

im impressed mate :)

dont worry about IBT, we measure stability by having the benchmark you are planning to run finish! :)

[FACE]

That's an insulation job good enough for ln2! I'm glad you have her worked out...

I wonder if anyone can get away with flowing the skin on that thick around a LGA socket... :blink:

[Neuromancer]

Word.. if it handles wprime 1024... its uber stable. (IE... you need to clock more LOL)

[ny_driver]

im impressed mate :)

dont worry about IBT, we measure stability by having the benchmark you are planning to run finish! :)
Gotcha! I like that kind of stability better. If I can race...it's stable! Waiting for a download now making coffee.:ohcrap:

That's an insulation job good enough for ln2! I'm glad you have her worked out...

I wonder if anyone can get away with flowing the skin on that thick around a LGA socket... :blink:
I'm hoping to not have to remove the cpu for awhile or until I want to.

EDIT:
Word.. if it handles wprime 1024... its uber stable. (IE... you need to clock more LOL)
I always hated prime.

[rickss69]

That's pretty thick...just be uber careful you don't let any flow into the cpu socket, it won't be pretty. :thumbsup:

(Next time I would mask the edges of the cpu with tape before skinning if you are going that high with the level)

[ny_driver]

It's not quite that thick, I spread it up on the edges of the cpu. I filled in every possible air opening in that socket around the chip. I'm hoping it's good to go without regular removal. I'm too lazy for that, plus moving shit around is how leaks happen. I did all the skinning with cpu installed.

It's working perfect right now I don't want to touch it until I must install the thermometer probe.

[rickss69]

Heck, I would'nt tear it up for a temp probe anyway. Your bench will let you know how far you can take it...I seldom read temps unless pouring LN2.

(Btw, Jor-El has his cpu in as well when it flowed into his socket)

[ny_driver]

Yeah, but I'd really like to know the actual temperature of the block/IHS. It's not that hard to remove the block, I just don't want to mess with the cpu, cuz then I need more skin...or to learn how to use the eraser.

If my chiller bath is -33c, what do you estimate my quad core is running at?

[ny_driver]

My pump died because I was running it on 5v for hours. I'm such an idiot sometimes. Gotta get another pump tomorrow...going to get a 12v marine utility pump @ 200 gallons an hour from harbor freight for $40.

Computer crashed and it took a few minutes to realize why.....finally I got it running again @ default settings and then notice the cpu was @ 63c and the cores were @ ~85c in HWmonitor. It didn't want to run overclocked when it was hot. :keeporder:

Good Night

[ny_driver]

This pump I got is loud as hell, and doesn't work for shit. I have a quiet submersible one on the way now. Should be here this evening.

I admit I reduced the fittings out of necessity, but the hole that actually goes through the pump is smaller than my fittings. It's sucking water .........it sucks my finger up tight to the hose, but the water is just not getting out the other end through the waterblock I guess. It's only trickling out and it's supposed to be pumping up to 4 gallons a minute w/ 50psi.
Anyone know about pumps? I'm going to try a submersible fountain pump, although I am kind of skeptical about it.

The lowest my cpu went was 21c with this pump installed. It was running 4-5c with the other pump that was obviously doing a better job.


BTW...do you think the previously mentioned temps could have hurt my cpu if only for a couple minutes? I'll find out later I guess.

[Neuromancer]

I would solve that blockage problem before worrying about anything else.

Take the block apart and clean it out.

[ny_driver]

It's not clogged, the pump just doesn't have ass enough to push the air out. Simple as that. I even just removed the block and pump to assist in getting the air out and it didn't get it all out. seemed like it was pumping good. hmm going to go with the submersible I guess...less air problems I think and quieter.

[ny_driver]

Is it possible that I fried the chip and the temp sensors are now out of whack? EDIT: nahh it's the air.........It's at 30c right now and rising slowly. Air is so fucking frustrating.

[Neuromancer]

Yeah I have only WCed a few times... I build the rig up with enough slack in the hoses that I can move pieces around while the pump is on to bleed the air. (flip the rad 180 degrees for a few minutes. Tilt the whole rig to the side then the other side...

Never took more than 10 minutes to bleed a system after my first attempt./

But I also never ran 4 blocks in a loop ;)

[ny_driver]

I just have the cpu in there. But the air in the return line is like a brick wall. I have no idea how I got the last pump going.

With my gpus I have the res above everything and it just bleeds right out.

Here as you can see the end of the return is downhill. If I put the return through the side of the cooler it would work great I bet, but that's a lot of work I don't plan to do.:ohcrap:

I should just let a few gallons out and put a hole through the side, then the air would have nowhere to get trapped. Simple solution, pain in the ass to do. I think I'll try the submersible first though as it should be much quieter.

I'm going to have the same problem with the submersible in the return line. This blows.

[Neuromancer]

Ahh... I see it now...

Yeah you are going to have to keep the pump input line below water level. Not a big deal really although right now it will require removing the liquid from the loop. With a big daddy pump in your last pictures I would not think it would be a big deal as long as you prime the feed line. But... bleeding would be tough.

If there is nothing coming out of the output, there is nothing going in the input. Pressure does not mean much if it is vapor locked by a big ole air bubble...


In theory....


if you have about 3-4' of intake hose inside the cooler... fill it... put your thumb over the end of it... put it all back in the cooler under the water... power up the pump wait a second or two and remove your thumb.. this should provide enough liquid to keep the circuit going.

Not a water cooling guy, but do have some experience with pumps.

you could also use a small pump to prime the feed line for the big one until the loop is bled (should only have to do it first start up...)

[ny_driver]

It's not that easy...the instant the hose goes into the chiller it is frozen like stone. I have my pump below the water line, way below, and I just cannot get the air out of the return line. I need to get another diaphragm pump I think. Wasting days.:blink:

[Neuromancer]

It's not that easy...the instant the hose goes into the chiller it is frozen like stone. I have my pump below the water line, way below, and I just cannot get the air out of the return line. I need to get another diaphragm pump I think. Wasting days.:blink:

Yeah the pump is below the waterline but you probably have a big old air pocket in the feedline since it has to go up from the res.

You should try getting everything setup BEFORE running the chiller (bleeding especially :) )

[ny_driver]

Got it!!!

That awesome SureFlow diaphragm pump I thought I ruined by running on 5v works fine. My coolant just happened to be freezing up at the same time my pump "died", so it seemed to not be working right even on 12v...it was shutting down.

Anyways...I removed 3 gallons washer fluid and added 3 gallons pure Prestone antifreeze. I don't think it will be freezing up anymore. I saw the bath temp was down to -37c last time I chilled it, and it is better insulated now. I took care of the cold piping so it should be colder yet.

I would say 3rd time is a charm, but I tried 2 different pumps yesterday so I'm on the 4th attempt.

This pump will pump air, it doesn't care...it's bad-ass. Not even the slightest bit of hesitation.

Diaphragm pump is the key.

I'm expecting to see all zeros on the cpu and cores today, instead of just the cores. :clapping:

I psyched to fire it up after I shower and eat.:thumbsup:

Happy Sunday everyone.:)

[Kal-EL]

:) :) :) :)

[ny_driver]

Well in case anyone was wondering what was up...I'm having pump problems.

What kind of pumps work @ -30c........what do people use successfully on these chillers? Thanks...I'm pulling my hair out here.:blink: Diaphragm pumps have rubber diaphragms which are hardened by the cold and then don't work correctly. Impeller pumps are way too loud. I'm thinking people must use piston pumps.....

........any info would be great.

[ny_driver]

Well after another days worth of hard labor, I have it working with the loud ass impeller pump. CPU is @ 7c right now, but I've had a lot of trouble getting Windows....computer has frozen up like 3 times...all with some form of overclocking...right now at setup defaults.

I think I may have toasted the chip getting it hot that day when the pump quit working on me and I didn't notice until the computer crashed because that pump was quiet. This pump does not work quite as well as the diaphragm pump, but it wont freeze up. 8c now @ stock....I hope it isn't fried. :shock:

[Kal-EL]

People usually use iwaki pumps, I used a 12v thermaltake (iirc) and it pumped thru -42c, trick is finding the coolant/water ratio that will not freeze up or sludge up and is not overly viscous that the pump will cavetate.

Your board prolly shit something before the chip actually was injured. You may need a good old fashioned cmos clear via battery removal.

[ny_driver]

Memory...so many errors that memtest froze up...lol......thing is I took out the one that was bad before I freezered it and it wouldn't even post...lol again...now the bad one is good and the good one bad. I thought maybe that was the problem.

Wanna hear something weird though...the clear CMOS has something wrong with it. Normally when I press it (not sure if I've done it on this board yet), all the lights go out. when I press this one the lights all start blinking. Gonna have a heck of a time getting another advanced RMA.

If it's ain't thing it's something else.

EDIT: ahh I almost removed the battery too.

[Kal-EL]

Those boards aren't exactly durable as you've experienced and prolly read thru the threads. Good luck tho and pm Shannon, he may be able to assist with the rma.

[ny_driver]

Well it seems that now both of my memory modules are bad...but 1 worse than the other. This one at least works for awhile.

What did you use for coolant in your chiller? How much does it cost. I'm having viscosity issues too I think down at ~ -36c in the chiller.

[ny_driver]

EDIT: I'm happy to say I think the chip is ok and I just have to oc around the memory right now. Everything seems normal now...except I need to use something different as coolant, or maybe just diluted some back the other way to more washer fluid...argggghhhh I spent $30 for 3 gallons antifreeze. This is the most expensive project ever. :blink:

[ny_driver]

Thinned it out with 3 gallons warm washer fluid and the cpu temp has only gone up 2 degrees..lol...its pumping a full stream now where it was only trickling with the high viscosity of the antifreeze at -35c....it will get colder in awhile when the chiller gets chilled again. I just have to stop around 20-25 below Fahrenheit.

Probably with straight alcohol/water I could get it colder.

[Kal-EL]

EDIT: I'm happy to say I think the chip is ok and I just have to oc around the memory right now. Everything seems normal now...except I need to use something different as coolant, or maybe just diluted some back the other way to more washer fluid...argggghhhh I spent $30 for 3 gallons antifreeze. This is the most expensive project ever. :blink:
Ah the pains of reality, hehehehehehe :taunt:
(I ended up buying 6 gallons of anit-freeze cuz I messed up the first 5 ratios)
Thinned it out with 3 gallons warm washer fluid and the cpu temp has only gone up 2 degrees..lol...its pumping a full stream now where it was only trickling with the high viscosity of the antifreeze at -35c....it will get colder in awhile when the chiller gets chilled again. I just have to stop around 20-25 below Fahrenheit.

Probably with straight alcohol/water I could get it colder.
Yep yep yep, good luck again bro-chacho :D










(maybe later you can get the OCA Community Dice Pot from Kikicoco and run some dice :D)

[ny_driver]

Got some good pictures for you guys today...........:)

Wait till' you see the hair inside my waterblock. Shoulda had the filter on there.

First we have the hair (from my cats). then we have a picture of the final insulation job for now on the hoses, then you can see the probe next to the cpu, and finally the whole system, including the new "pump-house" on top of the cooler.

In a minute I will add two of the block insulation job. :cool3:

[Kal-EL]

Ack! Holy hairballz! :blink:

Kitty misbehave and got dunked in Anti-freeze? :laughing:

Glad you got them issues sorted, in for the #'s :D

[ny_driver]

Sorry, the power went out while I was posting the temperatures. A/C chiller and pump are too much on that circuit.

Anyways after pre-chilling the chip with ~-32c coolant for 10 minutes I managed to get the CPU to read 3c @ 4Ghz/1.428 vcore. Currently the probe temp is -3c and software says 6c, but the probe is on the outer edge of the chip. Seems that maybe the software is working ok at this temperature.

I'll try to get the chiller colder before next run. I'll let the chiller run all night and see how cold it gets.

[Kal-EL]

losing temps somewhere or the temp software is just wrong at near 0c me thinks. Just run till it hurts.

Did you prime the thermal interface by running warm for a few minutes?

[ny_driver]

Haven't tried warming up the chip to let the Ceramique even begin to set. Do you think the probe temp sounds accurate? In the sodtware all the cores are reading zero still and the cpu temp says 8c. This pump is pumping so fast the a/c can't continue to cool the res while the computer is running. My internal thermometer says the chiller is @ -30c.

[Kal-EL]

Yah, I think the cores are sub-zero already and the software is innacurate. Next session, warm up the ceramic so it spreads across the heatsink before getting stiff from the cold. A few wprimes at this temp right now will move the ceramic around anyways ;)

[ny_driver]

When I tested out the block while unmounted...ice formed almost instantly on the face of it. I'll get it hot for a few, then I'm going to shut down and let it chill while I mow the lawn. That should improve things. My pump must have finally got fully locked onto the water when I partially removed the inlet/filter to check for debris, because it got much quieter. :thumbsup:

[ny_driver]

Here is a bonus picture of my GPU loop that seems horribly inadequate with it 90 degrees in here, but it still looks pretty cool.:thumbsup:

[Kal-EL]

Dude, such a killer setup! :D

[ny_driver]

Thanks a lot! :thumbsup: I put many long days into into and I must say it seems to be working pretty darn good(knock on wood) at the present time. The probe says 26F/-3.3C what do you think...I bet the center is colder than where the probe is by a lot....and I'm only pretty sure the probe is making good contact with the surface of the block(the outer part though). I need a better probe. They must make very thin flat probes.

EDIT: It still does 4.5GHz:dance: (http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1369357)

EDIT: Yeah if you compare the pictures that probe really isn't touching the part where the water is hitting.

[ny_driver]

I just like using my new camera....ok?:blush: Racing @ 4.3Ghz/1.5v....loving it! My other 4890 should be here tomorrow.....I should chill them huh?. And use something else for the cpu.

EDIT: wow look 4.5GHz/1.5v (http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1369538) You guys probably aren't as amazed as I am. Seems perfectly stable too. Going to race-test in a minute.

[Kal-EL]

lol, keep PUSHIN!!!! :D

[ny_driver]

Race tested, ny_driver approved @ 4.5GHz/1.5v :blink:

[HITandRUN]

lol, keep PUSHIN!!!! :D

YES! Keep going mate! I love it! :D

[ny_driver]

Hey another NYer, what part you from?

[HITandRUN]

Hey another NYer, what part you from?

Upstate NY few miles away from Binghamton. :thumbsup:

[ny_driver]

That's not upstate.....Binghamton is 20 miles from Pennsylvania. Upstate is like north of I-90 I'd say, but people from the city would call Middletown "upstate"....lol

I live half way between Binghamton and Utica on Route 12. Born in Norwich/ live in Sherburne.

Ona side note....My chip is running @ 0 Celcius finally according to PC Probe. BIOS says cpu temp is N/A and HWMonitor just eliminated it all together. Weird. The chiller got down to -45 Celcius overnight. :cool3:

[Kal-EL]

Nice chiller, now u need to bench FAST! and get the results you want before the bath warms up ;)

[ny_driver]

I already got the results I wanted....racing @ 4.5GHz/1.5v rules. I suppose I'll have to try for 5GHz....should be np. :thumbsup:

After the nostalgia of the new toy wears off some I will start churning out some benchmarks. Going tri-fire as soon as Fed-Ex gets here.

[Kal-EL]

Ah, the prestigious 5ghz club (http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88)eh?

[FACE]

Every time a clocker reaches his 1st 5ghz, an Angel gets its wings... then promptly flies over to another angel that got its wings some other way and punches it in the sack... :thumbsup:

[ny_driver]

Well here goes....going to try 5GHz(225x24)/1.6v....be right back!:clapping:And here is a screenshot of 0 celcius.

[Kal-EL]

Now we're talking overclockin :D

[ny_driver]

I meant 22.5 or whatever came out to 5000MHz, but I have been unable to get 5Ghz to post even with 1.7v and everything else not overclocked, then I tried 4.75Ghz and still had trouble. I tried 250x20, 223x22.5, 209x24, then 250x19 and it just wouldn't do it.

Not cold enough I'm thinking.:ohcrap:

It does 4.5GHz/1.5v like a champ though. :)

[Splave]

bump cpu/NB a bit 1.575?

[ny_driver]

Even if I haven't OC'd the NB frequency? Or should I OC the NB and add voltage to the cpu/nb?

[Neuromancer]

You were running HTlink at 2400 so I hope you are overclocking the cpuNB (it must be higher than HTlink)

1.575 on NB is a lot unless you are pushing past 3GHz on it. (Not really sure of required voltages for those kind of speeds TBH... doubly so on thuban)

[ny_driver]

I'm on a Deneb, but either way I never had the NB lower than the HT. Usually keep the HT below 2400 and the NB ~3GHz, but I tried it with both on "auto". For 3GHz NB I need ~1.51v

EDIT: will try again later.

[ny_driver]

UPDATE: I did a major overhaul tonight. I put the pump, and the feed line below the top of my reservoir, so the system is now gravity fed with no place for air to get trapped. :shock:

I'd say I have gained quite a bit. Right now the BIOS says the cpu is @ 5 Celcius and the reservoir is only @ -15 Celcius. Until now I have had to have the reservoir @ -32 Celcius to even see 5c on the cpu according to the BIOS. When I had the reservoir @ -45 Celcius this morning I actually saw 0 and N/A for the cpu.

Anyways I am expecting it to get much colder. And I'll post pictures tomorrow after I clean up the mess. Looks like a bomb-blast site when I get done doing a project. :eek:

[HITandRUN]

That's not upstate.....Binghamton is 20 miles from Pennsylvania. Upstate is like north of I-90 I'd say, but people from the city would call Middletown "upstate"....lol

Well thank for letting me know where I live! I thought someone would finally spill the beans one day! :good: ;)

Every time a clocker reaches his 1st 5ghz, an Angel gets its wings... then promptly flies over to another angel that got its wings some other way and punches it in the sack... :thumbsup:

Yo stop drinking the same shit I do Face! :D


BTW: Great job on the clocking mate!

[ny_driver]

lol....thanks.

Going to get 5GHz ~7 AM today after I sleep and the chiller gets down to -45 Celcius. Must be it just needs to be colder because I get 4.5Ghz on 1.5v all day....lots of headroom there. :D

[ny_driver]

Still can't get 5GHz or even 4.75. Kept getting the BSOD right after the Windows logo disappears @ 4.75GHz....I tried 1.6 and 1.62v @ 4.75 and only 1.6 @ 5GHz, but I tried 1.7 yesterday without it being quite as cold.

The chiller started out @ -40c and is up to -37c now. It seems pretty watery, but it must have thickened up a little because it's not flowing as awesomely as it was last night.

Mix is approximately 4/5 washer fluid and 1/5 antifreeze. Antifreeze gets too thick I think. I may try thinning with a couple gallons of denatured alcohol, but that's like $30. Good idea?

EDIT: yup as the reservoir temp goes up slightly with the top open I see the cpu temp creep down, so that tells me the flow is picking up a little.

[Splave]

^dont believe your bios temps past 0c :) they are wrong

[ny_driver]

I made it too flammable and ended up diluting it by taking out 2 gallons of the mix and replacing with water.

I think I need a higher flow water block or something. Even with the system gravity fed, it's just not flowing like I want. :blink:

[Kal-EL]

flamable?

[ny_driver]

Yeah, alcohol is highly flammable and burns very hot.

What is the ideal mixture of fluids for a chiller? Obviously should have asked this question prior to now. I took out 6/7 gallons of that mix and replaced it with 6 gallons of anti-freeze/washer fluid. Now it is non-flammable again and I have some super high potency washer fluid in the garage. :thumbsup:

Good thing I love wasting all my money.

I may look into a new pump and high flow water block. I plan to continue to use the chiller for 24/7 even though it's never anywhere near 24/7.

And finally...I think the pump is on it's last leg. At least I'll be an expert chiller builder by the end of this.

[Kal-EL]

I never wrote down my mixture and it took some experimenting to find teh ideal mixture for my pump/setup/needs. I too have wasted a ton on the chiller experience :D

Didn't know you were running a flammable coolant this entire time, eek, glad that didn't turn out crispy ;)

[ny_driver]

I was only running flammable denatured alcohol today for a short while. I soon removed it and decided the real problem was the block.

It came with the Swiftech h20-220 Ultima Extreme kit, but it is designed for a low volume system.... certainly not with a 3 gallon per minute pump.

I did a lot of stuff today and took quite a few pictures which I'll try to get to tonight. I opened up the block, removed the inner o-ring, drilled out the inlet hole to match the size of the outlet, and cut 4 grooves in it to allow more water and it worked like a charm.

Now if the Chiller isn't full the return coolant shoots right through the evaporator which is about 3 inches from the side of the cooler on that end.

I'm pretty psyched to see what it's like in the morning when starting @ -45 Celsius.

Definitely better already and my pump no longer sounds like it may die soon. :cool3:

EDIT: I just realized I have been mis-spelling Celsius for awhile now. :blush:

Be back soon with some pictures.:)

[ny_driver]

-20 Celsius and the flow is about half of what you saw in the picture. Can't really tell by the feel when your hand is submerged in -20 coolant....but I can tell just the same. The pump, however, is still quiet and cool so it's not working hard. May have to cut 4 more grooves in the block soon.

I could thin it with some water perhaps.....it is ~ half anti-freeze and half washer fluid.

I guess the flow isn't so bad yet.....:keeporder:

[ny_driver]

And here is some more pictures showing my new hose configuration and my beautiful new hose insulation. :D $1.33 for 6' you cant beat that and it's self adhesive, but I wrapped in with black tape.

And for kicks a picture of taking extreme measures:ohcrap: DO NOT TRY THAT.......

Going to try for 5GHz again in the morning when it's very cold. :clapping:

[Kal-EL]

I think maybe you've been stricken with severe overclockaholism bro, we're gonna need you at 5ghz fast before winter. Lord knows the nation needs its supply of anit-freeze! lol

Way to go on the home brew buddy :D

[ny_driver]

Loving every minute of it :Dizzy:

[Neuromancer]

The addiction begins...

[HITandRUN]

I think maybe you've been stricken with severe overclockaholism bro, we're gonna need you at 5ghz fast before winter. Lord knows the nation needs its supply of anit-freeze! lol

Way to go on the home brew buddy :D

Geez! Yes get that 5G finally! I think there maybe something else holding you back. I think you are plenty cold for 5G. :thumbsup: Keep hitting it! ;)

[ny_driver]

I was able to get 4765MHz earlier today, but had pump problems again and couldn't continue trying. I couldn't get 5GHz quite to windows...just to the beginning of the logo. Then either a reboot, BSOD or BlackSOD.

Now using a fairly low flow submersible, but not submersed. It's a pond fountain pump. It is working effortlessly, silently, and nice and cool. Temps are staying sub-zero I'd say. HWMonitor reports no cpu temp, BIOS reports zero or N/A and PC Probe says 1-2c....PC Probe has never gone to zero I'm pretty sure.

I'm also fairly certain higher flow will produce lower temps so I'm going to get another 1 of the marine utility 12v pumps. I ruined the first 1 with such a highly restricted waterblock on the line for so many hours. Good thing for the 30 day satisfaction guarantee! A pump will run a long time if it's not being worked.

Here is a picture of what I tried this afternoon, after my marine pump got very loud like a bearing was going or something this morning. I tried this because the pump gets hot, but it works very good.

It still got hot even with frost all over the tubing. Live and learn I guess. When a pump starts getting hot it's toast.

EDIT: here is a picture of the new pump in action. Still going to replace it tomorrow though.

[Kal-EL]

not too much further now and you're making progress :D

[ny_driver]

Where the heck do I get a temp probe that I can slip under the edge of the cpu?

EDIT: I bought a cheap one @ Ebay.

[ny_driver]

I have now moved the GPUs into colder water as well. I wanted to chill them slightly, so I used a 10' piece of garden hose from the pump to the 1st GPU and made that garden hose go through the chiller through the 2 holes already in the lid.

Now they are idling ~10-15 C cooler( low 30s) and the hoses are no longer hot. :thumbsup: I'm very pleased.....I think I may use a longer piece of garden hose and cool them a little more. I decided submerging the radiator would get them too cold and I'd have condensation.

[FACE]

very impressive... you are following right along the addictive schedule.....

by that I mean your daily rig will end up on either ambient air or water, and you will have a single stage by your benching rig, as well as a pot or two.... you can deny it, but it's coming. .....oh and it's reallllllyy fun. all the cool kids are doing it. :keeporder:

Seriously though, this has been one of the most epically detailed chiller threads I have ever seen come together, if not THE most detailed. You just did more than anyone with any amount of ln2 could do... you inspire to create.

my condolences on your impending addiction to the frost.... :cool3:

[rickss69]

It has been a long journey from the ceiling to the floor...:D

[HITandRUN]

very impressive... you are following right along the addictive schedule.....

Ehh definitely! More cold is coming I'm sure!

It has been a long journey from the ceiling to the floor...:D

Yeah you could call it this way! :thumbsup: :D

[Kal-EL]

Awesome, glad OCA was privileged to be on this journey with you into the cold :D

[ny_driver]

It's been a great, fun, and trying experience getting this thing working well. I'm glad I brought the build log here. :thumbsup:

It's benchtop style from here on out I'd say. I like my computer much better with it out in the open.

Adding 4' of hose to the gpu loop, coiled up in the chiller. Pics & results later. The chiller didn't get very cold last night for some reason...or so it seems looking @ the thermometer.......only ~ -30c:thumbdown:grrrrrrrrrrrr...it was -22 when I went to bed @ 1AM. WTF?

[Kal-EL]

My chiller lost a bit of capacity after a while as well. It could be due to the imense pressure build up in the system taking a toll on the compressor. Turning the unit on while still very cold in the bath can cause this too, but it seems gradual.

Make the most of the deep temps you get now, it may not reach these optimal temps consistently.

[ny_driver]

Bummer....my chiller is already on it's way out? :thumbdown:

Anyways the 2nd loop I added going through the chiller dropped the gpu temps from the low 30s to the low 20s idle...... which is perfect for them. :thumbsup: I hope it lasts awhile, geez I just got it working.

If it quits working good before I get my new thermometer I'm going to be highly irritated.

[Kal-EL]

Bummer....my chiller is already on it's way out? :thumbdown:

Anyways the 2nd loop I added going through the chiller dropped the gpu temps from the low 30s to the low 20s idle...... which is perfect for them. :thumbsup: I hope it lasts awhile, geez I just got it working.

If it quits working good before I get my new thermometer I'm going to be highly irritated.

It'll be gradual so at least you'll have some fun with it :D

And if it totally fails, I've got the prescription for yah which you'll find is by far more exciting :D

Till then...........Froster the FEVER!
3139
3140

[ny_driver]

I have a theory......when the consistency of the coolant turns to slush and the evaporator is all covered in thick slush.....it no longer works very well to cool the coolant.

OR.....the coolant, once it turns to slush cools much slower. Like if you have a freezer full of water bottles....when they freeze up today they will not be as cold as the will tomorrow if left in the freezer. Ice cools slowly.

OR.....my chiller won't take anything below -31 C anymore, when last week it took some coolant down to -45 C. All I have left to thin it with is that jet fuel I got the other day mixed with antifreeze. :thumbdown: I'll try a gallon or so and see if it helps tonights chilling.

EDIT: here is a picture of the slightly chilled gpu loop.

[ny_driver]

My theory has developed into the theory that when the evap has slush all over it, it doesn't work well. Not sure if it's my whole brew, or if it's just part of it seperating and getting stuck to the evap. I have been scooping it out with a plastic ruler. Hopefully I'll get enough of it out.

[Kal-EL]

My solution to that was having one submersible pump in the bath to circulate coolant thru the fins of the evap AND having the return line pour directly onto the evap fins.

I think I missed telling you that thru this thread :blush:

[rickss69]

ny - Get in here and make some submissions for the contest. No matter the score, we are all going to get better at SPI. :thumbsup:

[ny_driver]

No I remember you saying about pouring the return on the evan if possible, but nothing about submersible pump. I have 1 and could try that. Thanks.

Contest?:ohcrap:

[Kal-EL]

No I remember you saying about pouring the return on the evan if possible, but nothing about submersible pump. I have 1 and could try that. Thanks.

Contest?:ohcrap:

lol, yah "Contests", one of these days you need to drift outside the walls of this thread and check out the other happenings around here ;)

[ny_driver]

Yeah I was thinking that too, but have been very involved in this particular project. reading the rules of the contest now. I can run super pi ok, but I don't know what to do with pifast.:blink:

EDIT: I cannot participate. I have no non-chilled system to use. Sorry.

[rickss69]

That was amended and chilled water is fine - no more excuses. :taunt:

[ny_driver]

:ohcrap:

I installed the submersible in the bottom of the tank. Should be moving some liquid down there. I have super pi mod 1.5 xs is that ok?

[rickss69]

:ohcrap:

I installed the submersible in the bottom of the tank. Should be moving some liquid down there. I have super pi mod 1.5 xs is that ok?

That is the one we use. You can get the PiFast bench from the link on the first post of the contest. (RomDom just didnt change the color of the linky so it kinda blends in lol) The desktop background pic is also there. :)

[ny_driver]

I tried pifast and it asked too many questions I didn't know the answer to. I don't know what settings to use.